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Sizwheel felling cut


slack ma girdle
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This. Reminds me of one of reg"s vids over a yr ago.   Although there are others on the net….
Remember I’m not saying who’s right or wrong… as every tree needs its tlc to do the job intended  . No damage/complications and tree on the floor is what we all aim for. Your vid is good,,, and a good start for anyone needing to know the basics…

 

it’s starts about 7:29  but the whole vid is worth the watch, but those reg subs will know and already seen it

😉

 

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2 hours ago, slack ma girdle said:

The down side is the height of the stump, the back of the handle was touching the ground in that video.

Never tried that so it's a new one for me.

 

The extra bend length for that part of the hinge means a high stump is inevitable  but as you put the diagonal down cut in first why not keep the saw level when doing the vertical down cut and feel for the meeting with the diagonal cut? A small over cut into the middle of the hinge isn't going to matter any worse than a letterbox.

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I wouldnae worry too much about the stump police, not like ur doing it to every tree.

 

And the time it saves instead of roping/winching u can just knock the stump down.

I often use it on big hairy leaning outsiders so ur stump is never that low by the time u have took the toes of and possibly jacking it anyway

 

Must admit i tend to make it up as i go along so every tree might get a slightly different version/method, but i have bored the front diagional from the front before just nipping away at it until u meet the vertical bore.

 

I think if a few of my failures it has been with the diagonal following the gub line, and when ur doing the back cut like spruce pirate says ur wanting to leave a lot more on the inside but under estimate it because u are going off where the original hinge should be, but u have now undermined it by an 1 or 2".

School boy error really but it happens now and again if ur using them enough, and they are usually fairly ugly trees

 

 

Is there not a felling cut where u quite literally take a box out of the front instead of a triangle gub?

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23 minutes ago, drinksloe said:

Is there not a felling cut where u quite literally take a box out of the front instead of a triangle gub?

 

This is what I did if I wanted to give the hinge more bend but  the grain has to be fairly vertical; place your gob top cut, then bore in with a vertical cut to meet it, then make your bottom cut so as to leave a vertical hinge the width of the bar, make your felling cut to meet the top of the vertical.

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1 hour ago, drinksloe said:

 

Is there not a felling cut where u quite literally take a box out of the front instead of a triangle gub?

 

I think I watched a video of Hotsaws101 a while back where he described that as a Humbolt notch and the upside down gub that we'd now normally call a Humbolt he was referring to as a modified Humbolt.  Can't remember the exact reasons for the modifiaction, but I think it might have been something to do with people with clipboards and safety. 🙄  I like the "modified Humbolt" for felling downhill, but have never tried the square cut, never seen the need.  It's not something I know a lot about.

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The square mouth I think is used on massive tree, but I have never been able to find out the reason why. It is often used with a snipe (angled cut) at the front for the tree to slide down.

I know that the humbolt cut was developed with big trees, so that the mouth would slide out when it was cut. Most of the mouths when cut were not able to be moved by hand!

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The block face was developed when chainsaws could not cut on an angle. Two parallel cuts were made and the gob was simply broken out with hand tools.

It can be a useful cut, especially for backleaners as the hinge holds for a long time - in affect  a full width sizwheel 

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