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Stove Install Advice


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Alright folks

 

I'm hoping this is a simple question/answer .

 

Basically renovating a house now getting to the final stages and installing the wood burner and potentially hit a few snags and i think the builder might have dropped a clanger.

I've had a look throu this site and the J regs and still not managed to figure out the safe distances and exactly wot is classed as a combustable material.

 

The log burner is a clearview 650, no (back boiler) so a 7" flue

Reading the manual and online the way i'm understanding it the stove can be 225mm from the wall but the flue needs to be 525mm.

 

I'm not wanting anything special or unusual it was meant to be centered against the flat external gable wall and 2 lengths of single skin flue before twin wall up throu cieling ( its a 3.6m ceiling) and out throu roof, the wall is just ur normal stud partion with insulation but no fire board or anything special.

So i'd say just a bog standard classic stove install. At the time i did expect the centre plasterboard sheet to be fireboard.

 

The builders have put the hearth in for a 225 clearance but the problem will be the flue is too close to the wall, i was hoping to over come that by putting some fire board up the wall or tiling it but have been told that is no longer up to modern regs.

And for wall to be classed as incombustable it needs to be 100mm thick of incombustable material ( ie block or facing brick) as with just a tile the heat can transfer throu the tile, which i get.

 

But been told quite a few different things, just got of phone with architect and he doesn't even think ur allowed single skin flues anymore incase someone falls against it and burns themselves, but does admit he's not sure.

Which dosn't seem right to me but i admit no expert ( only put stoves in cavans/outbuildings up till now and always err'd well on the side of caution with fire proof materials)

At moment not managed to catch up with the stove supplier

 

Looking throu the J regs and it mentions if a stove can heat the hearth up to more than 100c and i don't even know if mine does or not so now even more confused than ever.

 

Cheers for any advice. We have came up with a few ideas since the problem arose but just not exactly sure the specs and regs we have to work too

 

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525mm is the distance from  anything combustable and is 3 x the single skin diameter. So when you go through the ceiling with insulated flue it has to extend down into the room by at least 525 before you can think about single skin. If the wall behind your stove is masonry your single skin flue can be way closer but fireproof sheet and tiles fixed to wooden battens is  classed as combustable.

On one of my stoves , although there are stone  walls I've had had to bring twin wall flue to just above the top of stove because single skin would be too close to an oak beam.

 

CCE8D969-760C-4A43-A574-B3A618750CE8.jpeg

Edited by slim reaper
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1 hour ago, Steven P said:

Just a point to note that the electric cable behind the fan? is probably rated for 70 deg C, might be getting too hot.

Thanks for your concern but It was an extension lead for temporary power while the electrics were off during renovations which are now back on.

image.jpg

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And for wall to be classed as incombustable it needs to be 100mm thick of incombustable material ( ie block or facing brick) as with just a tile the heat can transfer throu the tile, which i get.

 

 

200mm actually.    

 

There are a couple of stove specialists here,  it would have been better to hand the job over to a qualified installer at an early stage.    Builders who are inexperienced with stoves often get things badly wrong,  I have a case in legal hands at present owning to a builder not putting a lintel in over an opening.  Home owner demanded we return 2 days later to do the install,  but we were booked solid some 2 months ahead, home owner wont pay for the stove that he had to get someone else to install.

 

Another slight issue,  Hetas are I understand refusing to allow anyone to sign off a Clearview as most are not compliant with the emissions and efficiency regs of 2014,  let alone the new ones of 2022.   So you need it signed off by a building inspector which I assume was your intent anyway.

 

A

 

 

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