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Petrol Powered Post Knockers


Bunzena
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3 hours ago, woody paul said:

Post and rail you will find remains of post has not rotted enough to drive new post in same hole, it can be done if you can get tractor with thumper to drive new post down on top of old post or digger and just dig out old post remains and back fill, I have used large coach screw welded to a bit of steel, screw it into remains and then pull out piece and put new post in. 

DSC_0061.JPG

Well I think I'll be making something on those lines at the weekend! 

I'm having visions of augers, scaffold poles and lifting chains now😅😅👍👍

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2 minutes ago, william127 said:

Well I think I'll be making something on those lines at the weekend! 

I'm having visions of augers, scaffold poles and lifting chains now😅😅👍👍

You do need to find a big coach screw, think the one I used came off a electric pole. 

Can take a couple of attempts to get a good hold. 

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Hired the Australian one with the Honda engine a few times.
On the right ground it’s fantastic. On the wrong ground it’s miserable.
Sand with an almost sandstone compacted layer about 200 to 300mm below the surface was grim.
They don’t hire the spike out to pilot hard ground sadly.
On other ground 4 inch stakes have flown in no bother.
On the whole it’s a good bit of kit.
Hard on the ears though.

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2 hours ago, lux said:

Hired the Australian one with the Honda engine a few times.
On the right ground it’s fantastic. On the wrong ground it’s miserable.
Sand with an almost sandstone compacted layer about 200 to 300mm below the surface was grim.
They don’t hire the spike out to pilot hard ground sadly.
On other ground 4 inch stakes have flown in no bother.
On the whole it’s a good bit of kit.
Hard on the ears though.

They advise making a pilot hole first with a bar

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IMG_1647468193.799135.jpg
This is the pilot core tool they don’t supply , well from where I hire it anyway. For hard going ground. Driven in by the post knocker and rotated out on the t bar using a fence post to lever it around. Takes a 50mm core.
Poking the ground with a fencing bar is just for seating the post upright to start off.

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11 hours ago, Stere said:

I use an alu maul stood on a beer crate.

 

I recommend the lighter alu maul over the heavier head weight ones (they come in different head weights) . Lighter one  is alot less hard work really noticed the difference....

 

Crow bar a a really good hole first then on good ground doesn take that much effort.

 

How many posts like 25 or more like 100's?

 

Farm jack is useful to as a post puller....

 

 

 

Are those alu mels not funny ackward things?

Only used 1 a couple of times but the head was so massive u losing about 6" of swing every hit.

 

is there benefits over a normal mel of the same wieght?

Must admit i do lik the normal mels with a fibre glass shaft

 

No dobt the seceret to easy meling is a decent bloke on the pinch in front of u.and a beer/juice crate is a godsend if ur a bit 'vertically challenged .

 

In the past 5ft post were the standard when everybody melled them in by hand, that extra 6" in height does make a difference getting on top of them

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13 hours ago, dig-dug-dan said:

I have just purchased the Honda post driver, and will be driving in 10 3.5inch uni stakes on Saturday. I will let you know how I get on.

I looked at the cheaper machines, but I like the fact that they do an adapter for chainlink posts for this one!

Sounds good - let me know how you get on.  I was going to say keep us all posted... [sorry, I'll get my coat].

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