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Blade advice for green Scots pine


Buttered Scones
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I'm not certain but I suspect you have a versa cut chain if it's an Oregon. They're not really designed for significant cross cutting or felling as you might expect. Assuming I'm right and you have a 3/8 lo profile .50 bar then I think you could get a Stihl Picco full chisel which will cut alot quicker.

 

I may be wrong about yours being low profile though. Hence the need to know what's written on the bar. 

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17 hours ago, Buttered Scones said:

Newbie here. 

We live on a Northumberland hill farm and we got hit pretty bad by Storm Arwen (11 days with no electricity!). We're still cleaning up and I am processing several Scots pines that were blown over. 

Using the general farm saw - a relatively recent Husky 135 with a 14" bar and the usual Oregon general purpose blades. I am replacing blades every hour or so and re sharpening using my Granberg so the angles are correct.

 

Now with the upper branch wood, this set up works fine, however, I am really struggling with lower trunk. Scots pine is pretty tough stuff when green.

 

Can anyone suggest a full chisel blade that would fit this saw and where I could get a supply in the UK? Alternatively, any recommendations for a better blade for cutting dense green wood would be very welcome. 

 

cheers in advance

Buttered Scones 

When trees blow over they often throw up soil, stones/grit onto the lower trunk which will take the edge off your chain/damage it. A chisel chain will not hold its edge as good as a semi-chisel chain but cuts faster when sharp. Scots pine is relative easy to cut compared with most hardwoods. It is normal to give the cutters a few strokes every time you fill up but if cutters get damaged they are not going to hold a sharp edge for long until you get past the damage, some run 2 or 3 chains at a time on one saw. I normally spend a few minutes clearing away best I can soil/grit/small stones where I make a cut as sharpening a chain takes much longer also watch out for stones thrown up lying at the side of the trunk which you may hit.  Your local chainsaw dealer would be able to supply you with chain and provide advice some have ready made up chains and some will also have it on the roll.

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2 hours ago, DCS6800i said:

I'd guess the chain has anti-kick bumpers, hence it working fine on branches but not the trunk...

 

I've cut up large Scots with my Stihl 210 no bother in the past so I can't see a 135 struggling

It's all relative though isn't it . The 135 might seem not to be struggling  but plonk a 372 or 390 on and it will be a different picture .

Edited by Stubby
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On 18/01/2022 at 15:48, Stubby said:

Part of the reason you struggle with " the lower trunk " is its a 35cc " home owner saw " . Keeping it sharp and taking down the rakers every third sharpen will help . Keeping it out of the dirt will help . A bigger saw will help !

Sound like a quack all this help help help 🤭

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9 minutes ago, Stubby said:

It's all relative though isn't it . The 135 might seem not to struggling  but plonk a 372 or 390 on and it will be a different picture .

 

But the op has a 135, so that's what he's using.

Suggesting anything else is pointless. The saw in question will do the job - just needs a better chain by the sounds of things

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4 minutes ago, DCS6800i said:

 

But the op has a 135, so that's what he's using.

Suggesting anything else is pointless. The saw in question will do the job - just needs a better chain by the sounds of things

Replacing chains every hour is pointless . I don't think suggesting anything else is pointless . Have you never done anything of a suggestion ?  Just trying to help . Anyway that's told me ! 🙂

Edited by Stubby
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