stove size and using an inline fan

[drinksloe]

Cheers openspace.

 

Wot happens if the air gets too hot?

Do the fans have a maximum operating temp?

 

The fan will be quite a bit away from the inlet, i must admit i'm still looking at the finer details of best fans etc.

So far pretty much everyone has told me its a stupid idea that will never work, so glad to come on here and see its not so silly.

 

No no de humidifier yet, probably putting in a extractor fan.

At moment only got the roof trusses, sarking and membrane on just before crimbo, its effectively a new build.

Old roof ripped off and whole rear wall knocked down and ripped out, floor dug out to be concreted, shifted about 3000T of soil from a banking behind it and moved a burn so not been a simple build, will get easier now.

 

My 1 problem which i will overcome somehow will be placing these pipes/ducts in the wall and then remembering where they are to connect them later after i get my completion certificate, don't want holes all over my nicely plastered walls!!!

[openspaceman]

20 hours ago, drinksloe said:

Cheers openspace.

It's Andrew mate 😉

20 hours ago, drinksloe said:

 

Wot happens if the air gets too hot?

Do the fans have a maximum operating temp?

I was more worrying that the duct might melt or worse.

 

I'd be fairly sanguine about temperatures below 100C but wood repeatedly exposed to higher temperature actually becomes easier to ignite even it it started out dry. We had the example of a kiln catching fire when the operator put the same load through two drying cycles, this was because the heating tubes were hot enough for the radiant heat to get the wood up to 200C even though the convected air in the kiln was only 120C. Because the kiln had some scraps off wood (sawdust, bark, splitnics etc). that had been in the kiln for many cycles  some of these had darkened and as a result absorbed the radiant heat well and the surface charred. Nascent charcoal catches fire at just over 200C. As the temperature rose quickly because the dry wood was no longer giving off moisture a fire took hold.

20 hours ago, drinksloe said:

 

The fan will be quite a bit away from the inlet, i must admit i'm still looking at the finer details of best fans etc.

So far pretty much everyone has told me its a stupid idea that will never work, so glad to come on here and see its not so silly.

My fan is 10ft away from the stove and draws the air out of the convection vents via the two flexible exhaust pipes and then into a plasterboard duct before it reaches the fan.

20 hours ago, drinksloe said:

 

No no de humidifier yet, probably putting in a extractor fan.

If the drying room is fairly well sealed and a bit above room temperature, say 25C, then I found an dehumidifier worked well and was gentler on clothes and boots than other methods. Nowadays, as I don't come in muddy and wet, we leave the drying cupboard doors open and seldom switch the dehumidifier on.

20 hours ago, drinksloe said:

At moment only got the roof trusses, sarking and membrane on just before crimbo, its effectively a new build.

Old roof ripped off and whole rear wall knocked down and ripped out, floor dug out to be concreted,

Sounds good, I hope you have plenty of DPM and insulation under the screed the pipes will be embedded in.

20 hours ago, drinksloe said:

shifted about 3000T of soil from a banking behind it and moved a burn so not been a simple build, will get easier now.

I'm not overly keen on heat pumps yet because of the capital expense but a ground source heat pump under or next to a stream could be another matter as long as it's not meltwater at 0C.

 

[slim reaper]

I read one article where it said its better to blow  air from the cold room to the hot room  and duct the warm air back . 

 

[openspaceman]

1 hour ago, slim reaper said:

I read one article where it said its better to blow  air from the cold room to the hot room  and duct the warm air back . 

 

@neiln said much the same but didn't elucidate, I gave an example of why it may be.

 

Impractical in my case as the hot air would go straight up the stairs.

 

As I said I first tried  just sucking warm air through a flexible pipe from over the stove and blowing it into the next room but it didn't work, the air didn't get much warmer than 25C and  the next room was too cold such that the radiator was needed. It is only since I changed, this summer, to the set up in the picture above that delivers 40C air into the room that it was able to keep both rooms up around 20C and the rest of the house around 17C when the temperature is down to 5C outside. So far this year the temperature has only been below freezing at night for three or four days. Today it was 17C outside and still 14C now but I  lit the stove, at about 17:00.

[slim reaper]

Sorry I completely missed those or I wouldnt have posted. 

I get really pi$$ed with what I think are a combination of slow connection and all the flashing adds on this site that makes my screen jump up and down all over the place ,its difficult to keep track  at times.

[openspaceman]

16 minutes ago, slim reaper said:

Sorry I completely missed those or I wouldnt have posted. 

I get really pi$$ed with what I think are a combination of slow connection and all the flashing adds on this site that makes my screen jump up and down all over the place ,its difficult to keep track  at times.

I can't help with the adverts, site costs money to run,

 

Don't worry about posting something you have missed, sometimes it's not possible to keep up with every post in a thread.

[Rob_the_Sparky]

Way way way back in the day I lived in a house with a blown hot air system (from an over night electrically heated heat store) and the problem was the cold air coming back to the blown air system meant there was a constant cold air draft around your ankles.  Hence the idea to blow (and duct) the cold air to the burner rather than the hot air from the burner sounds like it might work better, avoiding that sort of draft occurring.