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Scuttlefish

Chainsaw file sizes

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I use Stihl chains, and use a 5.2 mm round file  for my 3/8 chain, as recommended.  I have seen a few comments suggesting that as the teeth get smaller on re sharpening it is a good idea- with Stihl chains at least  - to move to a 4.8 mm file for the last few sharpenings before throwing the chain. Does anyone out there actually do this, or do most users just carry on with a 5.2 until the chain is gone ?

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7 minutes ago, Scuttlefish said:

I use Stihl chains, and use a 5.2 mm round file  for my 3/8 chain, as recommended.  I have seen a few comments suggesting that as the teeth get smaller on re sharpening it is a good idea- with Stihl chains at least to - to move to a 4.8 mm file for the last few sharpenings before throwning the chain. Does anyone out there actually do this, or do most users just carry on with a 5.2 until the chain is gone ?

I do if I have a 4.8 to hand . This is with any make of chain .

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I've done this a few times although I can't say I noticed a difference, and as Stubby said you need the 4.8 handy, and like buses, police men and hookers you can never find one when you're looking for one !

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You get a bit less hook as the tooth gets smaller ie the file is sitting higher, just take it out the file holder (if you use one) and file down a bit in to the gullet.  So you get a bit more of a C shape when you view it from the outside of the tooth.
 

theres always other ways to do something, you just have to know them and try them.

personally, I use a progressive depth gauge, and It changes the way the tooth angle meets the wood, but I also use a file holder and I take it out of the holder at times 😉👍

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progressive depth gauge,

 

Its that this husky one ?

 

Husqvarna Depth Gauge for .325" Chainsaw Chain - 505 69 81-00

 

.325 also recommendeds a smaller file when chain is worn -  4.8mm  then swap to 4.5mm

 

 

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Nah the stihl one, I only use the hardwood setting,

edit.. I only use this on all my chains whatever make of chains

my advice would be get a new chain sharpen it and then use this tool and see the difference it makes. As the tooth gets smaller you may only have to file the depth gauges  a few times and you already have the correct angled ramp. It sucks doing it to an older chain as there’s a lot of filing ( to get the correct ramp angle) and only a small bit of  tooth left

 

WWW.STIHL.CO.UK

For manual reworking of the depth gauge. Made from hardened steel with special coating. Two settings for...

 

Edited by Wonky
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Nah the stihl one, I only use the hardwood setting,
edit.. I only use this on all my chains whatever make of chains
my advice would be get a new chain sharpen it and then use this tool and see the difference it makes. As the tooth gets smaller you may only have to file the depth gauges  a few times and you already have the correct angled ramp. It sucks doing it to an older chain as there’s a lot of filing ( to get the correct ramp angle) and only a small bit of  tooth left
 
ea06465e90084f06ba3a189072f5ec7a.jpg WWW.STIHL.CO.UK
For manual reworking of the depth gauge. Made from hardened steel with special coating. Two settings for...  
I bought one of those but wasn't convinced, maybe a good tip to try on a new chain.
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I do as if you dont change down a size you take quite a bit of meat out of the tie strap or have to reduce your hook angle. 

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I'll add this here for reference, it’s  worth a read if you haven’t seen it. You can then make your own informed choice 👍😉

 

 

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