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Advise on 1st Chainsaw for home use


Steven1210
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@Rough Hewn
 
Why dont you ask @STIHL GB how they go about avoiding bent crankshafts via chain contraction?
 
While your on the phone to them also ask them what ratio coolent to water they reccomend and wether its best to push start a chainsaw or use jumper leads if someone left the lightson in the clutch cover.
 
 
 

Write something constructive Mike.
I do have a little experience in these matters.
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Do think alternating between 2 chainsaws might be worthwile after using a full tank as whilst crosscutting   especially if noodling big rounds across the grain - as this can make chainsaw get very hot.

 

Especially if its  hardwoods like oak etc

 

The chain thing sounds unlikely though maybe issue for larger bars  as more chain to contract?

 

 

 

 

Edited by Stere
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Do think alternating between 2 chainsaws might be worthwile after using a full tank as whilst crosscutting   especially if noodling big rounds across the grain - as this can make makes chainsaw get very hot.
 
Especially if its  hardwoods like oak etc
 
The chain thing sounds unlikely though maybe issue for larger bars  as more chain to contract?
 
 
 
 

You can check the “play” in your chain easily.
Hold a section of several drive links.
Push and pull them.
New chains have no play, old chains will contract and extend very slightly.
This is caused by the rivets grinding the tie straps, and…..
Poorly maintained chain tension.
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3 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

A new chain will stretch.
A hot chain will stretch more.
A cold chain contracts.
I’ve had a 361 shown to me with the whole clutch mechanism doing loops.
People who are new to saws often have difficulty tensioning chains.
emoji106.png

 

They need to know not to tension the chain while it is hot, snot rocket surgery. I bought a cheap bar for my 036 on eBay and the chain would hardly pull round by hand however slack I had it. The paint in the guide was so thick it was like paste after I ran it and got some oil round it but it was fine after that.

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8 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

noodling big rounds across the grain

Across the grain is cross cutting, noodling is cutting along the grain horizontal. This clogs the clutch housing up in no time flat. You spend a lot of time planking don't you ? I've not done any but it looks hard on saws and chains.

Edited by peatff
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Chainsaw chains are a bit of a step back in time as far as drive transmission is concerned.

 

Most chain transfer drive from sprocket teeth directly to the rivets. Chainsaw chain transfers drive to a drive link riveted to the chain.

 

The rivet is fixed , passes through either a drive link or a cutting tooth. These holes wear and all the wear added up plus some warmth "grows" the chain.

 

Probably the do retract fractionally when cold. But bugger all compared to how much the holes wear .

 

I have been Alaskan milling since 1999,and running a saw professionally since 96.

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Chainsaw chains are a bit of a step back in time as far as drive transmission is concerned.
 
Most chain transfer drive from sprocket teeth directly to the rivets. Chainsaw chain transfers drive to a drive link riveted to the chain.
 
The rivet is fixed , passes through either a drive link or a cutting tooth. These holes wear and all the wear added up plus some warmth "grows" the chain.
 
Probably the do retract fractionally when cold. But bugger all compared to how much the holes wear .
 
I have been Alaskan milling since 1999,and running a saw professionally since 96.

So after accusing me of digging a hole,
then insulting me,
Now you’re agreeing with me…
Been on the juice this afternoon Mike?
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