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sharpening stump grinder teeth

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Got a Laski 360sw recently. It's my first foray into stump grinder ownership. It came with what look like yellow jacket style teeth (can turn 180 degrees to get a new edge). Wondering what is the best way to go about sharpening them...( though the set that's on has plenty of life in them they will inevitably get worn down ) 

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I use a diamond wheel on a bench grinder. Before that I had the green silicone I think type of wheel that worked well but created some very nasty dust, you really need to use a good filtered face mask with that. I have seen a wheel that you fit to a handheld angle grinder although I have never tried it.

 

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1 hour ago, Mesterh said:

I use a diamond wheel on a bench grinder. Before that I had the green silicone I think type of wheel that worked well but created some very nasty dust, you really need to use a good filtered face mask with that. I have seen a wheel that you fit to a handheld angle grinder although I have never tried it.

 

I usually get around x4 sharpenings with my diamond wheel on a bench grinder. I use yellow jacket teeth on my machines. Just don't let them get too blunt, I tend to change and sharpen after every full day's work. I looked in my knackered teeth bin the other day, I reckon there must be around x500 buggered up teeth.

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1 hour ago, Mesterh said:

I use a diamond wheel on a bench grinder. Before that I had the green silicone I think type of wheel that worked well but created some very nasty dust, you really need to use a good filtered face mask with that. I have seen a wheel that you fit to a handheld angle grinder although I have never tried it.

 

Those green grit wheels are very friable, so they keep presenting fresh grit to the carbide but just because the diamond doesn't produce as much dust isn't a good reason not to wear a mask and have good ventilation as tungsten carbide dust is not likely to be good for you in any case.

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I run multi tip teeth on my predator 38x, when they start to blunt/slow down, there never seems anything left worth sharpening? Does anyone else sharpen these ones, can't see its worth it. Do people just scrap the old teeth, does seem a waste 🤷‍♂️

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I normally get one sharpen on the 50% of multitips that aren’t wrecked but I run rhinos as the leading teeth as they seem to be more aggressive when new and easier to get an edge on with a diamond disc

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5 hours ago, PC Treescapes said:

I run multi tip teeth on my predator 38x, when they start to blunt/slow down, there never seems anything left worth sharpening? Does anyone else sharpen these ones, can't see its worth it. Do people just scrap the old teeth, does seem a waste 🤷‍♂️

I found multi tip difficult to sharpen, I used to use a diamond disc on an angle grinder held upside down in a vice. Didn't really rate the disc, tried using it when the teeth were still in situ but found it awkward as the cutting wheel tended to move slightly. Multi tip are a good tooth, easy to change, just make sure you reposition them when the leading cutters are less sharp. I think if you could find someone to re tip the tip, the cost wouldn't be effective compared to getting new. My yellow jacket teeth work out around £8 each from Vermeer UK when I buy a tub of 60, you get a 20% discount. €13 plus VAT  over in France for the same tooth, you might get 15 % discount. Some Brit in the north of France sent me a brochure detailing the teeth he made himself, "Yellow jacket type teeth", same price as the real thing over here. 

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I run multi tip teeth on my predator 38x, when they start to blunt/slow down, there never seems anything left worth sharpening? Does anyone else sharpen these ones, can't see its worth it. Do people just scrap the old teeth, does seem a waste 🤷‍♂️

 

I have run MT on two machines for the last 5 years, love the set up and it’s a 2 min job to change the lead teeth and then it’s back to full steam! I do “tickle “ them up but if there mullered or really dull I just bin then, green wheels are expensive and the dust is v Nasty, I then sell them on. Just price correctly and change the teeth.

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with the yellow jacket style teeth...is it best just to sharpen the flat underside or just the outer round edge? saw a special (meaning rather expensive) wheel for yellow jackets that had a special concave / groove that just sharpened the outer edge. 

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Usually the outside but the tungsten is fairly thick so you can grind the flat side a bit. There was a thread about this awhile ago in regards to not grinding the surface. 

 

I used to braze on new tips but more often than not too much steel had been removed from previous sharpens so it wasn't worth it.

If the teeth have taken a real battering then just bin them. 

 

As someone else mentioned use a decent mask even when using a diamond grinding wheel, it's just that the green wheels produce a hell of a lot of dust that hangs in the air which can cause silicosis iirc.

 

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