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Excessive bar wear


the village idiot
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I agree.
 
I have started using a granberg filing machine which gets the tooth length and angles spot on.
 
I thought tooth length variation might have been the issue but no joy.
 

Don’t forget gullet angle and depth will have just as much effect or more maybe than cutter length...
I have found on worn bars going back to a file guide necessary on the endings of a chain when the drive links have worn and given even more play... your always going to have one direction stronger than the other no matter how good you think you are at freestyle sharpening.
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6 minutes ago, MattyF said:


Don’t forget gullet angle and depth will have just as much effect or more maybe than cutter length...
I have found on worn bars going back to a file guide necessary on the endings of a chain when the drive links have worn and given even more play... your always going to have one direction stronger than the other no matter how good you think you are at freestyle sharpening.

Agreed, I am fairly awful at freestyle sharpening which is why I got the granberg. It's an excellent little machine.

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32 minutes ago, dumper said:

Did a lot of  cutting few years back on pier timber and sleepers found veg oils not as good as mineral oils for preventing bar wear, came to conclusion the heat in the bar was the problem, but no scientific fact to back up conclusion 

+1 for the oil being the problem, I get it when you say you don't want mineral oil all  over your woodland but from an engineering standpoint I doubt that there's many metal to metal contact wearing surfaces that could stand being lubbed with veg oil for very long, can't imaging getting away with using it on a motorcycle chain and sprockets for instance.

 

From a felling point of view I don't think the Bar and chain would come under such constant pressure as they will be when ringing up so much hardwood, so you could try felling in the wood with saws using bio oil to be green and then using saws with proper oil back at base to ring the stuff up ... and see if there's any difference, which I suspect there might.... and therefore containing any contamination to a specific area whilst prolonging the life of your equipment , cheers.

 

 

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31 minutes ago, the village idiot said:

Lots of build up on the chain actually. Do you think this could be a factor?

Chain that is sharp, oiling well, should be clean n shiny, no kakk between rivets or mukk in gullets. Yr sawing clean hardwood wood too, hmm. Blunt chain or little oil reaching it get  tar like sawdust sticking to it. K

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37 minutes ago, Macpherson said:

+1 for the oil being the problem, I get it when you say you don't want mineral oil all  over your woodland but from an engineering standpoint I doubt that there's many metal to metal contact wearing surfaces that could stand being lubbed with veg oil for very long, can't imaging getting away with using it on a motorcycle chain and sprockets for instance.

 

From a felling point of view I don't think the Bar and chain would come under such constant pressure as they will be when ringing up so much hardwood, so you could try felling in the wood with saws using bio oil to be green and then using saws with proper oil back at base to ring the stuff up ... and see if there's any difference, which I suspect there might.... and therefore containing any contamination to a specific area whilst prolonging the life of your equipment , cheers.

 

 

You say that but what about Castrol R40 a castor based oil used in racing back in the day .

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