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Do It Myself or Get Someone In and Cost?


Witterings
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1 hour ago, Dan Maynard said:

Witterings, what I think you should do is take the plunge and invest in CS30/31 training (whatever it's called now) - cross cut and fell.

You're obviously using the saw a fair bit, it will make you safer, and you'll enjoy it more than a week's holiday.

 

Yes seriously thinking about doing the "now" equivalent and have made previous posts asking about qualifications and work etc.

I really fancy doing something as it really interests me and enjoy everything about it, even if it's as an ad hoc subbie doing a day or so a week and would probably do a chipper course as well.

The guys today gave me a number of someone local who's currently doing training as a lot had stopped due to Covid ..... think it should be officially renamed by all as F**@-g Covid  and in the history books of the future we'll have life BC and AC but possibly also BFC and hopefully one AFC  😄

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8 hours ago, Witterings said:

 

He wasn't happy felling it in one ... took all the branches out and sectioned it down so I'm thinking I probably did make the right choice ... you probably know him being local Stephen Bacon and it was £200

Have meet him once , in the past . I know of him really . Seen his wagon about .  Glad you got it sorted .

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10 hours ago, Witterings said:

 

He wasn't happy felling it in one ... took all the branches out and sectioned it down so I'm thinking I probably did make the right choice ... you probably know him being local Stephen Bacon and it was £200

Well spent, you werent bent over and he will have liked the no clearup . K

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19 hours ago, Witterings said:

 

He wasn't happy felling it in one ... took all the branches out and sectioned it down so I'm thinking I probably did make the right choice ... you probably know him being local Stephen Bacon and it was £200

 

Just shows u an experienced cutter/arb didnae fancy it when u seen it in the flesh.

 

Only had a quick glance at photos but u could see a manhole cover and tree looks like I would like to fall right down the fence line naturally.

Also really no escape routes as they're usually 46 degrees to  both sides to rear where ur fence is, if something wen wrong ur pretty much trapped by fence.

Like spudog said sometimes amazing how far a tree can spring on is branches, I had a come back up an 6ft banking and sat on my leg, never in a million years did I expect that to happen, big hairy 3ft sitka.

Was a sore 1

If u knew wot u were doing u could probably easily put the tree in a 90 degree arc of fall and with some know how, wedges/rope probably put the tree n a 180+ arc.

 

I think u made the right decision, all great when it works but it wouldn't take much to go wrong to cause more than 200 quids worth of damage.

 

To an experienced/confident lad prob an easy enough straight fell, and while cypres generally hold hinge well and don't barber chair, it would be very easy in a smaller dia tree like that to put too large a gub in, then when u bore cut so busy keeping it away from rear of tree u cut 1 or both sides off the hinge away.

Then u do have a problem.

 

U could ratchet strap the stem to stop a barbers chair, in he olden days pre chainsaws the boys would wrap a chain round  the stem on hardwoods to top them splitting, as they had cut from the back with cross cut saws.

 

 

Great ur waning to learn more but be careful watching some of the clips u see online, quite a few heroes out there.

Some I wouldnae trust to cut my fingernails

Same with ur more advanced cuts, it's not the cut that's hard it's knowing when to use them, which trees hinges will hold enough to make it work which won't.

Seen a good clip recently about Dutchman cuts and he made the very valid point they do not always work even when cut is right, u have to be ok if it fails. ( Ie middle of nowhere and no property to damage. Not next to houses, decent fences etc

 

 

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3 hours ago, drinksloe said:

Some I wouldnae trust to cut my fingernails

Same with ur more advanced cuts, it's not the cut that's hard it's knowing when to use them, which trees hinges will hold enough to make it work which won't.

Seen a good clip recently about Dutchman cuts and he made the very valid point they do not always work even when cut is right, u have to be ok if it fails. ( Ie middle of nowhere and no property to damage. Not next to houses, decent fences etc

 

 

 

 

Quote

I wouldnae trust to cut my fingernails

 

Love this bit the most 😄

 

I've also been watching the Dutchman / Swinnging Dutchman and Soft / Ultra Soft Dutchman vids I just fimd the whole thing fascinating for ome reason

The point you make about "they don't always work" ... the guy who took the tree down said there was a twist in the trunk before he started and also the heavier side of canopy was towards the neighbours property. Afetr he'd done it I said would I have been mad to of done it myself and he said you may have got lucky.

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Photos don't show the whole clear picture.

Plenty of really scary chainsaw fail vids online too

 

Watched quite a lot of those vids too , as any cut that seems to defy gravity and physics would be brilliant in forestry.

Was getting quite good at Dutchmen in birch but u do 10, 20 or 30 trees perfectly then u just get 1 failing with no warning

 

The single biggest thing is knowing timber and how it reacts, does hinge hold splitty etc 

A lot off hardwoods or in Norway Spruce there just a non starter, hell sycamore will hardly holds hinge even with a winch on

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