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Husky e 245


organic guy
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Just to add to ADWs post, I have had a few 350s that are a very similar design, leak from where the alloy crankcase top ( the one the cylinder fits on) leak where it clamps to the engineering plastic cradle that forms the lower crankcase. 

This is where slight warpage happens in the plastic and leaks on the front and rear of the upper crankcase clam so under the muffler and inlet manifold.

The remedy is to clean the old gasket material from both surfaces, degrease and then apply a decent liquid gasket compound and do it enthusiastically between the bolt holes front and rear. It works. 

I have used a 345 for a few years. Decent saw, a bit like a detuned 346...nice to use, light and perform well.

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Thanks for all the advice.

Stripped her down after re testing with flywheel and clutch removed. Leakage was from join between cylinder and plastic lower crankcase , not bearing seals. Cleaned her up and resealed with some red gasket. I tend to go a bit light for fear of spillage on the inside. She's up and running again. Just need to find some dry weather to get her warm to see if I have cured it.

How critical is the exhaust gasket? Mine is cracked. 

I assume it should be between the heat shield and the cylinder, not between the heat shield and the exhaust?

 

TIA 

OG

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Just replace the gasket when possible. If it leaks badly, the exhaust gasses can make the cylinder too hot and it may seize. It fits between the muffler and heat shield.

Glad it is back together and I am not talking bollocks like my wife thinks I do most of the time9_9

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  • 3 months later...

Update on my saw. 

Air leak was not cured, stripped and re sealed with some different  sealant but still had issues. Restricted and pressure tested to find small leak either  side infront of crank bearing.

Striped, cleaned more diligently and new hylomar blue  and we appear to be there. Coughed a bit so cleaned carb gauze and seems OK. 🤞🤞🤞🤞

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