Excavator flail case drain

[monkeybusiness]

Slag - I didn’t know it was an option. Is that instead/as well as a case-drain line on yours?

[aspenarb]

I always run the case drain back separately, being able to reverse the flail when its choked up is too valuable a feature to lose.

 

Bob

[Gray git]

I always run the case drain back separately, being able to reverse the flail when its choked up is too valuable a feature to lose.
 
Bob

Very good points, going to have a good crawl around and look to see if it has a place ready to install a line but failing that a t off and change to free flow return might have to do for now

[John Shutler]

19 minutes ago, Gray git said:

53 minutes ago, aspenarb said:

I always run the case drain back separately, being able to reverse the flail when its choked up is too valuable a feature to lose.
 
Bob

Very good points, going to have a good crawl around and look to see if it has a place ready to install a line but failing that a t off and change to free flow return might have to do for now

if be surprised if there wasn’t an extra port on the tank 

[LGP Eddie]

My take on Case drain is you’ll get away with it piped back into a free return pipe (Hammer Mode) on most machines, but a simple trick to T in one way check valve with suitable low cracking pressure free to air will help you prevent motor seal damage should something happen untoward, as it’ll give a path of least resistance.

 

The difference between Mowing and full on Fixed Tooth Mulching is night and day in the pounding it gives Hydraulic systems, you want that free return in the harder application to get oil away unrestricted and generally keep things cooler.

 

If you go full on piped case drain the next consideration is where to pipe it?

Put it straight into the tank and if the motor shits itself, the debris could be straight in your tank?

Plumb it in just before the return filter and you could just as well plumbed it into the return on the head as the back pressure of the filter will be the same.

 

Decision is yours, but if you go for the tank, ensure that it’s piped well down into the oil to prevent it aerating the oil.

 

Try the filler cap first, Kubota KX080 for instance will take a bsp reducing fitting and dowty washer straight in, and just weld a suitable piece of hydraulic tube into the large portion of the fitting to take it well below the oil.

The rest is easy to pipe up and there’s even spare ways in the Kingpost if it’s not a Two Piece Boom version.

 

More importantly for most reading this is get yourself some Tema Hydraulic Fittings instead of the Flat Face if you’re actually Mulching a lot.

You can replace the O rings in seconds on these and get the quality caps for them.

However the best bit of Tema’s is so many people don’t know they lock? Push the collar in and twist it 90 degrees, then most importantly screw a quality jubilee clip up behind the collar.

Total belt and braces, fix it in the field with a small pick and O ring, plus you can’t flick the collar back and knock your case drain off.

Case drain off = motor shits itself instantly!

 

Hope this helps a few, and yes bitter experiences behind the lot of that.

 

 

Eddie.

 

Edited January 23, 2021 by LGP Eddie

[Gray git]

My take on Case drain is you’ll get away with it piped back into a free return pipe (Hammer Mode) on most machines, but a simple trick to T in one way check valve with suitable low cracking pressure free to air will help you prevent motor seal damage should something happen untoward, as it’ll give a path of least resistance.
 
The difference between Mowing and full on Fixed Tooth Mulching is night and day in the pounding it gives Hydraulic systems, you want that free return in the harder application to get oil away unrestricted and generally keep things cooler.
 
If you go full on piped case drain the next consideration is where to pipe it?
Put it straight into the tank and if the motor shits itself, the debris could be straight in your tank?
Plumb it in just before the return filter and you could just as well plumbed it into the return on the head as the back pressure of the filter will be the same.
 
Decision is yours, but if you go for the tank, ensure that it’s piped well down into the oil to prevent it aerating the oil.
 
Try the filler cap first, Kubota KX080 for instance will take a bsp reducing fitting and dowty washer straight in, and just weld a suitable piece of hydraulic tube into the large portion of the fitting to take it well below the oil.
The rest is easy to pipe up and there’s even spare ways in the Kingpost if it’s not a Two Piece Boom version.
 
More importantly for most reading this is get yourself some Tema Hydraulic Fittings instead of the Flat Face if you’re actually Mulching a lot.
You can replace the O rings in seconds on these and get the quality caps for them.
However the best bit of Tema’s is so many people don’t know they lock? Push the collar in and twist it 90 degrees, then most importantly screw a quality jubilee clip up behind the collar.
Total belt and braces, fix it in the field with a small pick and O ring, plus you can’t flick the collar back and knock your case drain off.
Case drain off = motor shits itself instantly!
 
Hope this helps a few, and yes bitter experiences behind the lot of that.
 
 
Eddie.
 

Cheers Eddie
I'd say I'm after a finishing off flail to do the last bit of tidying up in a job after chipping or clearing away the brambles before starting cutting rather than going full fixed tooth mulcher to take on total clearance jobs, I'd rather get someone in set up for this if it comes around.
We run one on the e26 for the same purpose but having one for the bigger machine makes sense as either could be on site.

[LGP Eddie]

Plenty of choice out there, they just seemingly get better and better, as carrier machines gain more flow, and heads improve In performance.

 

The new Prinroth M450e for instance needs no case drain and is direct drive from the motor with no belts.

Very desirable features for users.

 

 

Eddie.

[aspenarb]

Drain case returns barely have a dribble running back to the tank unless the hydraulic motor is knobbed , we use inline Ikron HF series filters.These just go inline on the pipe so there is no messing about within the machine trying to find somewhere to locate it and it then stays with the head for transferring to other machines. 

Ikron HF705 - HTL Website - HTL (Formerly BYPY)

WWW.HTLUK.CO.UK

---

Supplier of hydraulic and transmission components for over 40 years UK distributor for Walvoil Casappa Eaton Miselli

 

[Gray git]

Drain case returns barely have a dribble running back to the tank unless the hydraulic motor is knobbed , we use inline Ikron HF series filters.These just go inline on the pipe so there is no messing about within the machine trying to find somewhere to locate it and it then stays with the head for transferring to other machines. 

Ikron HF705 - HTL Website - HTL (Formerly BYPY)

WWW.HTLUK.CO.UK

---

Supplier of hydraulic and transmission components for over 40 years UK distributor for Walvoil Casappa Eaton Miselli  

Sounds like a really good and inexpensive Idea to help protect the machine pump and valve's, do you simply have them before the quick connection on the return lines?
I'm guessing they are a sealed unit you just replace every so often?

[aspenarb]

1 hour ago, Gray git said:

Sounds like a really good and inexpensive Idea to help protect the machine pump and valve's, do you simply have them before the quick connection on the return lines?
I'm guessing they are a sealed unit you just replace every so often?

They come apart Gray and you can either wash out or replace the element, I like them because you can see from what's in the filter when things are starting to go wrong.

 

Bob