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The Wee Chipper Club


TimberCutterDartmoor

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i paid £2.5k for my cs100 18hp key start model, mint from a dealer (some private estate guy owned it, for 4years, used it a couple of times a year and had it serviced every year, traded it for a mini tractor) jumped on it and travelled a couple of hundred miles to collect it. Bargains to be had!
fit a winch... could even mount it to the chipper...

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Dinan, technically Lanvalley down by the port. 

A long narrow garden whose access was via a slippery alleyway and half a dozen granite steps.

The budget Chinesium chippette has 2 days to chew through thuya hedging, bay laurels, blue cypress, apple watershoots and what ever else the client points her purse at.

The weird cutting out issue traced to a badly wired stop switch and the safety switch (now disabled) on the folding infeed.

The one way street has a junction to the left of the bollard and further bollards making the parking of a truck and chipper plus pile of brash without first seeking permission from the town hall a logistical nightmare as it is also a mini-bus route with larger delivery trucks passing.

 So Chinesium Chippette was the way forward. 

We put 3 hours to the tenth of an hour on it today and feel rather exhausted.

  Stuart

 

 

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43 minutes ago, silky fox said:

Hi Stuart...I like the picture of your battery saw next to the chopper.I trust you enjoyed using it? For smaller pruning and not so smaller cutting I will always use battery power from now on.Have done for a few years nowemoji106.pngemoji367.png

Bought it for Mrs Lee as the 241 proved a tw*t to start at times.

Tia is far more confident using the battery saw, starts every time, silent and light weight.

 Stuart

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They struggle full stop if the anvil gap's too wide.  Too much material is taken at a time and you get strings of material instead of chip.

I would imagine the 'credit card thickness' gap would get you by on any wee chipper.  On my Jo Beau I tend to make it a 'tight credit card' gap; works fine.

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I think I'll try adjusting my anvil next blade turn.

Thuya comes out in long shreds.

Such is the quality of the Chinesium engineering, that the blade anvil gap does not appear to be consistant along the length of the blades but my French climber who owns a CS100 (Arbo18) says his is the same.

It has been 8 years since I took a CS100 apart but the memory of trying to undo those fecking blade bolts will live with me forever.

   Stuart

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1 hour ago, Will C said:

Weld a nut to the bolts, once you have filled the middle of the nut up the heat will make it come out easy. New bolts aren’t expensive and it saves skinned knuckles and rounded Alien keys/ holes .

I never had a problem getting CS100 blade blots out as long as you take care to clean out the grunge for good Allen key engagement, give them a sharp hit with a good Hammer, use and impact driver if you have to even. My son goosed one several years ago in error and as you say, clean it up, puddle weld a nut to it a bosh! Job done.

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