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Chain oil not coming onto the bar ??


Al Slitter
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Sorry for the delay I have been very busy plus we have had a cold running through our family here.

 

I tried many suggestions which include adding a little bit of fuel to the chain oil to thin it out a bit as it is now cool here.

I changed over the bar to another one and the issue is the same.

I removed all of the parts on the chain saw where the oiler is located and made sure that the oil holes on the chain saw bar are unobstructed. I cleaned in and around the oil port on the saw and that is clean and much like new.

The saw is a 50cc Chinese chain saw.

What is happening now is that I am getting a lot of oil when the saw is running coming from the bottom of the saw at or just in front of the clutch assembly. I had thought that previously when the saw was running and pointing downward chain oil would come off of the chain on the end of the bar. This is not the case now and the oil situation is bad as I am getting a lot of oil coming out of the motor area and not the chain.

 

Thoughts please.

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In most cases, after checking the bar oiler hole is clear,  it is easier to spin the clutch and drum off, pull the oil pump and pickup pipe off the machine, check the pipe and filter is clear, check the worm drive/pinion for damage to the worm thread and then check the oil pump inlet and outlet holes are clear.

Usually a squirt of WD40/carb cleaner and a blast from a compressor will clear any blockage but sometimes you need to work any slug of fine wood chip out with a sewing pin. 

If this doesn't do it, it may be the oil tank breather but is much less likely.

The issue with these Chinese saws is that they use cheap materials and poor design. The above on a mainstream saw may take 15-30 mins, some cheap Chinese saws need to have the engine removed to get to the pump.

Good luck.

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4 hours ago, spudulike said:

In most cases, after checking the bar oiler hole is clear,  it is easier to spin the clutch and drum off, pull the oil pump and pickup pipe off the machine, check the pipe and filter is clear, check the worm drive/pinion for damage to the worm thread and then check the oil pump inlet and outlet holes are clear.

Usually a squirt of WD40/carb cleaner and a blast from a compressor will clear any blockage but sometimes you need to work any slug of fine wood chip out with a sewing pin. 

If this doesn't do it, it may be the oil tank breather but is much less likely.

The issue with these Chinese saws is that they use cheap materials and poor design. The above on a mainstream saw may take 15-30 mins, some cheap Chinese saws need to have the engine removed to get to the pump.

Good luck.

Thank you for the detailed instructions, you might have just hit on the right solutions. The reason the saw was down was do to me replacing the clutch assembly. This I did, so I will take it apart again and see it there is an oiler issue. Please be patient as I am a newbie and am just learning these things through working on the saw and being a older person processing time is long.

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I will repeat what someone else said. There are many different designs of saws, thay all do the same job. “Cutting wood”  

 

if you take a pic it would help a lot, it could just be that you have assembled it wrong or the worm drive is slipping and not turning the pump.

 Btw...It’s  easy to upload pics, it also answers a thousand questions 😉

 

It’s hard to see oil on the chain sometimes and if it’s cold it’s also harder for the pump to pump it. 10% of Diesel or kerosene is what I use to thin oil. the real way to know if it’s working a little or not at all is to run it with out a bar and chain, gently, a bit more than tickover to half throttle. You will see the oil coming out if it is.

then fit the bar and chain and there are a few ways to see if it’s getting flung off the chain. Some times the oil hole can restrict it.

if it is oiling the way to gauge how much is by how much it uses to a tank of fuel.

btw. If Its leaking oil.  Pics help as some saws have well known faults. And usually there are IPL (illustrated parts list, or Exploded diagrams) for each saw which help repairing and not leaving something out.

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