Largest Diameter Tree Felled with Small Chainsaw?

[aspenarb]

Most of the kids these days cant get a big felling saw started unless they bring their mum along.

 

Bob

[peds]

8 minutes ago, aspenarb said:

Most of the kids these days cant get a big felling saw started unless they bring their mum along.

 

Bob

This hurts because it's true. Sorry.

edit - No wonder though, my mum is pretty hench.

Edited November 21, 2020 by peds

[AHPP]

2 hours ago, Billhook said:

Thanks for all the replies

If you had a 44 inch diameter tree to cut down and had a choice of two chainsaws one with a 48 inch bar and the other with a 24 inch bar, is there a situation where any of you would choose the smaller saw perhaps for more control and ease of use?

At the risk of being a clever dick, both. Big bar for the gob (or possibly only the first cut) and small bar for the rest. I like to letterbox and plunge and am not above plunge-halving gobs now and then.

[AHPP]

4 hours ago, drinksloe said:

I also tend to bore off centre too if tree not a real biggy, usually bore nearer the outside so leaving the inside hinge longer/bigger than outside.

I don't follow what you mean. Can you explain or post a sketch please.

[headgroundsman]

I remember my mates dad having a saw with a villiers engine and a kick start. 60" bar. Only used it on the large park oaks and then always made a cut with a smaller saw to put it in once started

 

[Moose McAlpine]

2 hours ago, Khriss said:

Honestly could not ever think of a time or place for one, outside of a strip club  ? K

You can't be getting your chopper out in the strip club mate. ?

[mtt.tr]

i did alot of 2.5x bar length fell when i started out couldnt afford a proper saw, still will go back to a smaller bar just to make sure i still can do it. A good amount of climbers i come across cant fell particularly well

 

372 with a 24" would be my one of my more commonly used saws

Edited November 21, 2020 by mtt.tr

[mtt.tr]

6 hours ago, Khriss said:

Always poke center of hinge out - wether it needs it or not - little strand left makes pounding in that wedge much arder. K

 

Always do this on stems, makes them pop over and off easier 

[drinksloe]

57 minutes ago, AHPP said:

I don't follow what you mean. Can you explain or post a sketch please.

No idea how to do a sketch and get it on here.

 

But generally in commercial forestry the trees will generally have a lean and heavy branches outside the wood and ur trying to fell them at an angle ideally so all branches land inside the boundary fence.

So u usually have extra tension/pressure on the inside side  off hinge.

So wieght/pressures/stresses never equal across hinge.

 

If the tree is a monster right on ur limit u obviously need to bore the centre equally, but a lot of trees are only slightly above, but still need bored 

So I'd bore to leave as much on inside as I could, so instead of boreing equally both sides from centre, I'd just bore from centre towards the outside/fenceline. With a bit off a diagonal poke towards the inside.

 

If that makes sense, althou to be fair as I read this I could just put a narrow letter box in and have it equal would do the same.

 

And if possible line my inside hinge up with a big buttress/toe.

Usually with these trees u need as much strength on inside hinge to stop them breaking off on u and flattening fence

[AHPP]

Got it. Cheers.