Largest Diameter Tree Felled with Small Chainsaw?

[Khriss]

Always poke center of hinge out - wether it needs it or not - little strand left makes pounding in that wedge much arder. K

Edited November 21, 2020 by Khriss
Plus if you bore right out to the back, you can pop yr wedge it smart like an look big n clever ?

[drinksloe]

Aye we all wish we were 2" bigger ??

 

 

Aye if in doubt bore it out. 

Always works for me, been caught out before thinking it will be ok.

Bloody nuisence

 

It's when u miss that wee sliver just behind where u bored and can't reach it from anywhere else.. 

 

Seen my having the odd 1 look like pencils

 

Althou I tend never to take an inside toe off if near where I expect hinge to be, esp on heavy leaning trees if want hinge to hold  pull it in.

Never think u get much strength on a hinge if toed off and just on the heart wood. 

I generally will stick the gub in 1st before I toe off to make sure not rotten timber in butt, so I might need the sap wood in toes to hold it.

Nothing worse when cut them off and then a load off butt rot in tree.

 

I also tend to bore off centre too if tree not a real biggy, usually bore nearer the outside so leaving the inside hinge longer/bigger than outside.

[Billhook]

Thanks for all the replies

If you had a 44 inch diameter tree to cut down and had a choice of two chainsaws one with a 48 inch bar and the other with a 24 inch bar, is there a situation where any of you would choose the smaller saw perhaps for more control and ease of use?

[Khriss]

1 hour ago, drinksloe said:

Aye we all wish we were 2" bigger ??

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.... Always been happy at 5 foot 8 mate  ? K

[Khriss]

21 minutes ago, Billhook said:

Thanks for all the replies

If you had a 44 inch diameter tree to cut down and had a choice of two chainsaws one with a 48 inch bar and the other with a 24 inch bar, is there a situation where any of you would choose the smaller saw perhaps for more control and ease of use?

Use the smaller saw every time. K

[Will C]

You can chase the hinge quicker with the smaller saw if needed but on the flip side you can also cut yourself into trouble by taking to much hinge quickly.
I would go for the sharper saw if it was a nice tree, but if it needed wedging or a forward leaner poss go with the bigger bar (assuming the saw is matched to the bar and cuts nicely)

[drinksloe]

I'd choose the smaller saw almost every time.

 

The only exceptions being wind blow or a tree with dodgy access, or on very steep ground so u can't really access it from both sides the way u need to with a smaller bar. Or too dangerous too access from 1 side for some reason.

Horses for courses

 

I doubt it will really take that much longer with a small bar either.

I'd still be using a 70 or 80cc saw so chain would be flying.

 

I should add I tend to work in forestry sites so will likely have to carry the saw a decent distance over crap ground and then sned and likely take a few logs off it too.

Never sned with a silly big bar but wouldn't fancy it.

Mibbee different if I could get pick up right on to jobs to pick the saw for the job and just fell and cross cut with the big saw.

I find a 18 or 20" bar will handle most trees I come across in commercial forestry, althou always handy having a bigger bar in van just in case

Occasionally I will carry 2 saws in if I know I can hide them at night but it is a baw ache carrying both out on the fri night

 

Think it's more an arb thing using bars same size as butt, once u get hang of boring a really easy technique

[drinksloe]

15 minutes ago, Will C said:

You can chase the hinge quicker with the smaller saw if needed but on the flip side you can also cut yourself into trouble by taking to much hinge quickly.
I would go for the sharper saw if it was a nice tree, but if it needed wedging or a forward leaner poss go with the bigger bar (assuming the saw is matched to the bar and cuts nicely)

 

Surely if a forward leaner ud still be better with the smaller bar.

As I'd still want to bore out gub even if I didn't need to to reduce chance of a barbers chair.

Then bore in from both sides leaving a tag at back, or a version of a 'T' cut with bored gub.

But u could do the same side bores with the big bar to achieve the same anyway so really wouldnae make much difference, just the ackwardness of precise boring cuts with big bar.

 

If the tree is that large u will be have quite a lot of leeway on hinge size so I probably wouldn't be chasing it that much anyway

Althou I never chase hinges that much, a tree that size ur probably jackng it over anyway. ( There always wieghted the wrong way, sods law)

 

 

Althou every tree is different so saw choice could vary to suit, no right or wrong answer just wot ur comfy/confident with

To be honest as long as u know wot ur trying to achieve it doesn't really matter if u get there with 2 or 3 cuts with small bar or 1 or 2 with larger, both work if u know wot ur doing

Edited November 21, 2020 by drinksloe

[Moose McAlpine]

35 minutes ago, Billhook said:

Thanks for all the replies

If you had a 44 inch diameter tree to cut down and had a choice of two chainsaws one with a 48 inch bar and the other with a 24 inch bar, is there a situation where any of you would choose the smaller saw perhaps for more control and ease of use?

 

A saw with a 48" bar is a big, heavy, unwieldy thing!

[Khriss]

13 minutes ago, Moose McAlpine said:

 

A saw with a 48" bar is a big, heavy, unwieldy thing!

Honestly could not ever think of a time or place for one, outside of a strip club  ? K