Bought a Panther Mill and Intersect

[arboriculturist]

After several years of debating what to buy and having almost gone for a Trakmet TTS 800 premium band saw and generator, I have taken several steps back and decided to just mill my requirements and high value slabs with a Panther 42" and a Spud ported 660 , which I already have, running Lo Pro Stihl chain.

 

I bought the Panther Intersect as well, as Rob D. says the combination of the 2 is the most efficient setup to produce any dimensional timber that I require.

 

We get a lot of tree removals where normally the trunk unfortunately gets ringed up for firewood, but as the timber costs my nothing, milling slabs should add a lot of value to some jobs.

 

I invested in the longest 1st cut system rails so I can, when the need arises, mill up to 8.5m when the labour to move slabs that length is at hand !

 

I have a forklift and facilities to dry up to 8.5m if is worth force drying or I can just sticker and let nature take its course? Marketing will be the real challenge !!!

 

I planned to mill 'slabs' at 2 1/4" and 3 1/4" but I would appreciate your views on these dimensions.

 

 

Edited November 13, 2020 by arboriculturist

[Rough Hewn]

Sounds good [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[arboriculturist]

27 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

Sounds good

Pleased for the positive post -  I planned to mill 'slabs' at 2 1/4" and 3 1/4" but I would appreciate your views on these dimensions.

[Rough Hewn]

Pleased for the positive post -  I planned to mill 'slabs' at 2 1/4" and 3 1/4" but I would appreciate your views on these dimensions.

That’s good thicknesses[emoji106]

[Rough Hewn]

After several years of debating what to buy and having almost gone for a Trakmet TTS 800 premium band saw and generator, I have taken several steps back and decided to just mill my requirements and high value slabs with a Panther 42" and a Spud ported 660 , which I already have, running Lo Pro Stihl chain.
 
I bought the Panther Intersect as well, as Rob D. says the combination of the 2 is the most efficient setup to produce any dimensional timber that I require.
 
We get a lot of tree removals where normally the trunk unfortunately gets ringed up for firewood, but as the timber costs my nothing, milling slabs should add a lot of value to some jobs.
 
I invested in the longest 1st cut system rails so I can, when the need arises, mill up to 8.5m when the labour to move slabs that length is at hand !
 
I have a forklift and facilities to dry up to 8.5m if is worth force drying or I can just sticker and let nature take its course? Marketing will be the real challenge !!!
 
I planned to mill 'slabs' at 2 1/4" and 3 1/4" but I would appreciate your views on these dimensions.
 
 

Never heard of anyone buying 8.5m slabs.
8.5m beams however are very very expensive.
Best air dry undercover,well stickered for first year, yes kiln the slabs. Wouldn’t bother kilning beams though. You will need to get structural timber graded and tested.
You will find the limits of a 660 very quickly when milling, spud does do incredible things to a chainsaws performance though.
A 42” bar will give a 36” cut.
That’s the absolute limit of 90cc.

Please post some pics when you’re up and milling [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[lux]

After several years of debating what to buy and having almost gone for a Trakmet TTS 800 premium band saw and generator, I have taken several steps back and decided to just mill my requirements and high value slabs with a Panther 42" and a Spud ported 660 , which I already have, running Lo Pro Stihl chain.
 
I bought the Panther Intersect as well, as Rob D. says the combination of the 2 is the most efficient setup to produce any dimensional timber that I require.
 
We get a lot of tree removals where normally the trunk unfortunately gets ringed up for firewood, but as the timber costs my nothing, milling slabs should add a lot of value to some jobs.
 
I invested in the longest 1st cut system rails so I can, when the need arises, mill up to 8.5m when the labour to move slabs that length is at hand !
 
I have a forklift and facilities to dry up to 8.5m if is worth force drying or I can just sticker and let nature take its course? Marketing will be the real challenge !!!
 
I planned to mill 'slabs' at 2 1/4" and 3 1/4" but I would appreciate your views on these dimensions.
 
 

I take it from the post you have a log kiln or access to one in which you can dry the timber. ? That’s a real plus for planks. Like hewn said if it’s beams for framing you want them green so as they naturally air dry and a mortise and tenon will gain an extra mechanical lock as it shrinks and tightens. Oak in particular
Timbers for say staircases etc etc will want to be killed or air dried a number of years.

I have found its best to move a stick in lengths back to the yard and mill at a later time rather than mill on site. Milling is a lovely process but is quite slow and makes a huge amount of mess. Unless a customer wants there own timber you will be spending a long time extra on a site and generating a big clean up in someone’s garden. Commercially if access allows you will make more money moving the stick and milling at a more convenient time / location and rolling onto the next tree job.

I no longer mill anything because it’s just nice timber. I will relocate it and save it for another day. If you have the space etc. Generally the timber is then just used for my own projects.

Hope that’s helpful.

[arboriculturist]

56 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

Never heard of anyone buying 8.5m slabs.
8.5m beams however are very very expensive.
Best air dry undercover,well stickered for first year, yes kiln the slabs. Wouldn’t bother kilning beams though. You will need to get structural timber graded and tested.
You will find the limits of a 660 very quickly when milling, spud does do incredible things to a chainsaws performance though.
A 42” bar will give a 36” cut.
That’s the absolute limit of 90cc.

Please post some pics when you’re up and milling

That's the least I can do after the hours and hours others have spent giving advice and posting on here !?

[arboriculturist]

5 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

Never heard of anyone buying 8.5m slabs.
8.5m beams however are very very expensive.
Best air dry undercover,well stickered for first year, yes kiln the slabs. Wouldn’t bother kilning beams though. You will need to get structural timber graded and tested.
You will find the limits of a 660 very quickly when milling, spud does do incredible things to a chainsaws performance though.
A 42” bar will give a 36” cut.
That’s the absolute limit of 90cc.

Please post some pics when you’re up and milling

May have access to a 3120, (I know don't run before you can walk ?) Mmm, I think this would run with the Panther I have ?

 

Just need bar, chain and sprocket.

 

I notice you buck the trend avoiding lo-pro and use 404 on your 880 and I am intrigued to know why - expect its down to abuse 404 will take - basically whatever you put it through.

Yes lose timber due to width of kerf, but maybe the trade off stacks up in favour of the 404 all things considered?

[Rough Hewn]

May have access to a 3120, (I know don't run before you can walk [emoji23]) Mmm, I think this would run with the Panther I have ?
 
Just need bar, chain and sprocket.
 
I notice you buck the trend avoiding lo-pro and use 404 on your 880 and I am intrigued to know why - expect its down to abuse 404 will take - basically whatever you put it through.
Yes lose timber due to width of kerf, but maybe the trade off stacks up in favour of the 404 all things considered?

I think lo pro is great for smaller saws and bars.
But putting .325 chain on an 84” bar pulled by 120cc torque.... I’m not testing that ?[emoji106]
However I’m seriously considering going lo pro for the logosol F2+ as I usually run either 20” or 25” on a 661.

.404 is like a tank. You can cut through nails and screws and it still keep going.
It blunts much slower and I find it easier to sharpen.
Also oregon only make hyperskip in .404
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[AJStrees]

On the Panther mill did it come with the small winch to fit to the frame? Have you used the winch and does it make lighter work of the milling? I bought a mill and wondered if getting the winch is useful or not.