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500i for milling?


Darryl J Saunders
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Or find an 070, never had issues with fuel filling to be fair and dont really see that as argument. The easiest work around is simply filling once you have got through the cut ?‍♂️.

You generally work out how many boards a tank will cut, so just work back from that ?‍♂️

 

20200910_132822.jpg

Edited by Big Beech
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Or find an 070, never had issues with fuel filling to be fair and dont really see that as argument. The easiest work around is simply filling once you have got through the cut ?‍♂️.
You generally work out how many b> <a href=http://dcn6x9s7fzj11.cloudfront.net/monthly_2020_10/20200910_132822.thumb.jpg.4c3c1abcf22f8240694661003641a487.jpg' alt='20200910_132822.thumb.jpg.4c3c1abcf22f8240694661003641a487.jpg'>

070’s are a good old milling saw. Gutsy.
But very slow (8krpm,6k in the wood).
Incredibly fuel inefficient and almost no AV.
Total tank!? but you can upgrade the pot and piston to 137 or 160cc[emoji848][emoji848][emoji848]
When you start to cut big slabs, you will need to refill in the cut.
I’ve found I can cut 12’x3.5’ oak with one tank.
Longer or wider and you’re refuelling.
[emoji6][emoji106]
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I mentioned the 070 as a basic weapon, or if you can find the av version or if lucky again an 090.

Id rather have torque over speed, if thats of concern just change out for a different sprocket size. I've all three of those, the logs on that picture are 7ft and I was cutting 6 boards before loss of fuel.

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On 10/10/2020 at 09:17, Rough Hewn said:


The reasons why no one I know uses a 3120 for milling is...
A. front tensioner.
B. Side caps for fuel and oil.

With an 880 you can tension it in the mill,
And on a big cut you can refuel with out having to back up to the start.
Otherwise the 3120 is an ok saw.
emoji106.png

He wus just trying to sell his 3120  ;) K

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