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Absolute beginner help...


Rob_the_Sparky
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Been using a 16" mains powered chain saw (Bosch AKE 40-19s) to cut firewood for a few years and just acquired a 14" 2 stroke saw from a friend for £30 as his firewood cutting days are over and I fancied something without a cord to a) try and b) for the occasional job away from a power socket.  For £30 I found it hard to say no but I'm not expecting too much.  It is a Mcculloch Maccat 435 but it came with no manual and I can find nothing on-line apart from a parts manual so struggling on where to start with it TBH, it being my first 2-stroke saw an all.

 

Anyone got any manuals or can point me towards a manual for a similar saw just to get me started?  (or just a don't be daft no one reads the manual, just put fuel and oil in and keep the chain sharp!)

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Most saws are pretty much the same, use 50:1 mix in the FUEL tank, chain oil in the OIL tank, make sure you tension the chain correctly, understand how the chain brake works and how and when to use it. Understand the dangers of using a chainsaw and that will give you some chance of protecting yourself. Never carry a running chainsaw with the brake off, never cut anything with the tip of the bar unless you want to damage yourself.

 

This may be of use if you are in to reading but the important thing to do is UNDERSTAND the dangers and how they can happen and use the correct methods to avoid them happening.

 

I am sure someone will now wax lyrically now about PPE?

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How much and often are you going to use it?

You can get those litre bottles with lines for mix or if going to use more a fuel can either single or twin with chain oil.

plain fuel can works also get your two stroke oil litre?and pick up an oil measure jug small thing that gives amounts for whatever mix(50.1/40.1/25.1) and 5litre/one Gallon or one shot.

Tip oil into fuel can then add 5litre of i use super unleaded myself then before using give can a shake to make sure it's mixed let set a minute before opening as fumes build.

 

Chain oil can be whatever your flavour litre or 5? ive got that Gator one.

Generally it's two fuel fills to one oil filled.

 

According to Mulloch blurb chains a 3/8 0.50 (1.3mm)and 4mm filing kit.

Don't list Sprocket type either whole or rim type but something to check for wear plus need to grease roller bearing in there!

In board clutch is easy just remove circlip slide parts off and grease bearing and reverse but outboard (which i think this is)need to remove clutch which is a lefthanded thread.

 

Rob on here shows you lots and rim sprockets which along with bearing many neglect but both will cause premature failures to chains and bars.

WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

Chainsawbars - Largest selection of chainsaw guide bars and chainsaw chain for Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo and Dolmar...

Hes on here and other methods. has lots of info on chain tension etc in videos along with dressing bar.

@Rob D

Edited by AngrySquirrel
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1 hour ago, Rob_the_Sparky said:

Been using a 16" mains powered chain saw (Bosch AKE 40-19s) to cut firewood for a few years and just acquired a 14" 2 stroke saw from a friend for £30 as his firewood cutting days are over and I fancied something without a cord to a) try and b) for the occasional job away from a power socket.  For £30 I found it hard to say no but I'm not expecting too much.  It is a Mcculloch Maccat 435 but it came with no manual and I can find nothing on-line apart from a parts manual so struggling on where to start with it TBH, it being my first 2-stroke saw an all.

 

Anyone got any manuals or can point me towards a manual for a similar saw just to get me started?  (or just a don't be daft no one reads the manual, just put fuel and oil in and keep the chain sharp!)

Keep using electric it’s the future 

  • Haha 1
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TBH I have no problems with the mains powered saw, it works just fine and I understand electrics.  Not much to go wrong in it.  The plan is that the 2 stroke will be for occasional use when I am away from the plug, but we shall see what happens when I start using it along side the electric.

 

By the way for those that are worried, I'm familiar with the safety basics and got chain saw trousers that I use (and gloves).  It is more the petrol specific stuff, like keeping the chain brake on when idling as there is no idle on the electric :)

 

Thanks all

 

P.S. I say not much to go wrong on the electric but it has!  Had to replace the power switch already...

Edited by Rob_the_Sparky
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2 strokes are all much the same to start, squish the bubble ten times, put the choke on, if it has an on/off switch make sure it’s on (amazing how many people don’t!) pull the cord until it turns over, when it does take the choke off and pull it until it starts. Make sure the brake is on when you start it.

 

Make sure the chain is sharp and tight enough.

 

Don’t touch anything with the tip, that’s where you’ll get kickback from.

 

Don’t take try to change the chain with the brake on you’ll turn an easy two minute job into a complicated two hour one. If you’re not sure why that is, don’t worry, you’ll find out sooner or later!

 

Make sure there’s always oil in the hopper otherwise you’ll overheat the chain and **************** it. I find I go through one tank of oil to every two tanks of petrol with my husky 550 XP which is a similar size saw I think although I’m not familiar with mcculloch saws, but different saws are different. Obviously.

 

Put 50:1 2 stroke mix in it, most bottles of 2 stroke oil have some way of measuring out the right amount to add. Rule of thumb better to mix it too rich than too lean up to a point, after that you’ll foul the plug, but even then better a dirty plug than a seized engine.

 

Try not to let the fuel run dry, it’s a pig to start again if you do.

 

If you’re going get paid to use it at least do your CS30, most of that is learning about how the saw and chain works and when you understand how it works it means you’ll be a bit more clued in what to do when something goes wrong, how to maintain it, troubleshooting etc etc

 

 

 

 

 

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