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Entec/timberwolf 150 bearings


dig-dug-dan
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My refurbished entec double bearings decided to give up after just 75 hours ( ???)

First thing, what do those shims do that the parts list says "as required"

Second, is the shaft removable from the flywheel? It looks like it should be , as there is two flat spots on it as if you can get a large spanner on it. If so, is it a left hand thread? Has anyone ever undone one after being on for such a long time?

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Dan the shims are there for anvil to blade clearance, the small bearings on the blade side of the rotor normally get knobbed in very short order if the bearing on the engine side is not correctly positioned, it puts a large axial load on the smaller ones that they can't cope with. I use long studs on the bearing housing on the engine side, shim and finish fecking about shimming/tightening on the blade side, gently tap the housing on the engine side back until it just touches the rotor housing, swap studs for bolts and tighten. Hope this makes sense.

 

Bob

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1 hour ago, aspenarb said:

Dan the shims are there for anvil to blade clearance, the small bearings on the blade side of the rotor normally get knobbed in very short order if the bearing on the engine side is not correctly positioned, it puts a large axial load on the smaller ones that they can't cope with. I use long studs on the bearing housing on the engine side, shim and finish fecking about shimming/tightening on the blade side, gently tap the housing on the engine side back until it just touches the rotor housing, swap studs for bolts and tighten. Hope this makes sense.

 

Bob

Thanks Bob. It's looking like when I rebuilt her, I obviously didn't set it correct, despite following the dean lofthouse thread !

I have stripped it all down, and have got it all ready, but am going to enlist the bart chipper doctor  guy who is on Facebook to assist me in rebuilding, then I can learn the process first hand.

One question, has anyone ever managed to undo the nose shaft off the flywheel? I assume it's a left hand thread?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Right, update. Got it fixed with the help of  bart chipper doctor, look him up on Facebook. He worked at timber wolf for 7 years, and has now gone on his own. He came to my yard and I shadowed him whilst we rebuilt the flywheel, balanced it, etc. 

So first, the new fans were fitted, as the old ones had mulled themselves inside the chipping chamber, then new nose shaft,  blades, and main bearing and housing. Then the whole thing placed on the balancing jig you see in the photo. He spent a lot of time balancing the rotor, adding a few extra washers to the fins, longer bolts here and there, all until it was almost perfect. It's what timberwolf do at the factory to all their machines.

Next we hoisted it in using the digger, set the front bearing housing up,and bolted it in. It spun freely.

Then we attached the rear housing, but upon doing so, noted that the nose shaft was now rubbing on the housing.

We adjusted this by simply hitting the shaft further in to the front bearing.

Once this was done, housing cover replaced and rear bearings fitted, packing them with grease.

Rotor span freely, so it was on with fitting the roller box, funnel and re wiring the controls. ,next was fitting pulley and belts. 

Once running , it was noted that the pulley moved back and was rubbing on the housing, causing sparks.

So, off it came and repositioned further forward, only for it to do it all again!

So, we tried to adjust it and happily after the third attempt, all was good. It looks like the pulley block was worn.

All screwed back together and running, but not tested on any timber yet.

All in all, he charged me £370, including new bolts, new fan sections, and travel time from Ipswich . It took 6 hours in all. 

I cant recommend this guy enough!

Oh, and if anyone buys a new wolf with a 25hp engine, it can be changed back to 35hp if you know what you are doing

 

 

20200911_095922.jpg

20200911_103030.jpg

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Ooof! That last statement....

It should be stated in changing the Tier 5 settings on the Kubota 1505 to the previous tier 4 ratings is against Kubota's warranty policy and could also render the whole machine policy invalid. Same goes for any make of machine so altered.

 

I know that we have all worked very hard at applying the Tier 5 regs but it has been mooted that a supplier could back away if their power units are being changed and the manufacturer or any of their agents is quilty of this 'crime.

 

I know that it is being pernickety but, if they are altered, in theory, the CE Pkate is then invalid and could void your motor or plant insurance too.

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2 hours ago, PeteB said:

I know that it is being pernickety but, if they are altered, in theory, the CE Pkate is then invalid and could void your motor or plant insurance too.

I think if an employee goes through the chipper then the lack of Tier 5 conformity is the least of your worries ?

 

Would be very interested indeed to hear how changing the engine on a towed chipper could invalidate your vehicle insurance.

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On 11/09/2020 at 18:41, dig-dug-dan said:

Right, update. Got it fixed with the help of  bart chipper doctor, look him up on Facebook. He worked at timber wolf for 7 years, and has now gone on his own. He came to my yard and I shadowed him whilst we rebuilt the flywheel, balanced it, etc. 

So first, the new fans were fitted, as the old ones had mulled themselves inside the chipping chamber, then new nose shaft,  blades, and main bearing and housing. Then the whole thing placed on the balancing jig you see in the photo. He spent a lot of time balancing the rotor, adding a few extra washers to the fins, longer bolts here and there, all until it was almost perfect. It's what timberwolf do at the factory to all their machines.

Next we hoisted it in using the digger, set the front bearing housing up,and bolted it in. It spun freely.

Then we attached the rear housing, but upon doing so, noted that the nose shaft was now rubbing on the housing.

We adjusted this by simply hitting the shaft further in to the front bearing.

Once this was done, housing cover replaced and rear bearings fitted, packing them with grease.

Rotor span freely, so it was on with fitting the roller box, funnel and re wiring the controls. ,next was fitting pulley and belts. 

Once running , it was noted that the pulley moved back and was rubbing on the housing, causing sparks.

So, off it came and repositioned further forward, only for it to do it all again!

So, we tried to adjust it and happily after the third attempt, all was good. It looks like the pulley block was worn.

All screwed back together and running, but not tested on any timber yet.

All in all, he charged me £370, including new bolts, new fan sections, and travel time from Ipswich . It took 6 hours in all. 

I cant recommend this guy enough!

Oh, and if anyone buys a new wolf with a 25hp engine,  he will se set it back to the old 35hp for you!

 

 

20200911_095922.jpg

20200911_103030.jpg

Think you got a bargain there , on site fitting and tech knowledge fr under 400 squid. K

Edited by Khriss
( Of Course I would do it myself ? but you cant go wrong with that man !)
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10 hours ago, PeteB said:

Ooof! That last statement....

It should be stated in changing the Tier 5 settings on the Kubota 1505 to the previous tier 4 ratings is against Kubota's warranty policy and could also render the whole machine policy invalid. Same goes for any make of machine so altered.

 

I know that we have all worked very hard at applying the Tier 5 regs but it has been mooted that a supplier could back away if their power units are being changed and the manufacturer or any of their agents is quilty of this 'crime.

 

I know that it is being pernickety but, if they are altered, in theory, the CE Pkate is then invalid and could void your motor or plant insurance too.

Pete, I think you are somewhat getting a bit excited. By changing it back to 35hp, the machine will run exactly as all the other dhb150 machines they sold .  

Insurance wont be affected, as let's be honest, if its stolen, they wont refuse to pay out if it's been altered to 35hp!,and how would anyone know?

As long as when the machine leaves the factory it conforms to the regs you have to stick to, what happens after then is up to the individual

I know this has Ben discussed on here and other forums many times, but the bottom line is that some rules really shouldnt be there!

It only seems to be chippers its affecting, I recently brought a 40hp kubota tractor, no ad blue, no dpf etc.

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1 hour ago, dig-dug-dan said:

Pete, I think you are somewhat getting a bit excited. By changing it back to 35hp, the machine will run exactly as all the other dhb150 machines they sold .  

Insurance wont be affected, as let's be honest, if its stolen, they wont refuse to pay out if it's been altered to 35hp!,and how would anyone know?

As long as when the machine leaves the factory it conforms to the regs you have to stick to, what happens after then is up to the individual

I know this has Ben discussed on here and other forums many times, but the bottom line is that some rules really shouldnt be there!

It only seems to be chippers its affecting, I recently brought a 40hp kubota tractor, no ad blue, no dpf etc.

Yup and from my experience etc warranty ain't worth a shit... Rather fix stuff myself then piss about with dealers. Commuting, time off etc, faffing about with hmm not covered under warranty..... Balls. Fix stuff myself best way and bloody quicker

Edited by swinny
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34 minutes ago, swinny said:

Yup and from my experience etc warranty ain't worth a shit... Rather fix stuff myself then piss about with dealers. Commuting, time off etc, faffing about with hmm not covered under warranty..... Balls. Fix stuff myself best way and bloody quicker

Agreed. I recently brought a brand new kubota oc95 engine for a crusher refurb I was doing. Fitted it, sent the whole machine off to have the wiring done on it for the crusher electrics, and they informed me the regulator was faulty. They supplied a new one, and fitted it and charged me, which was fair enough as they didn't supply or fit the engine.

When I went back to the supplier, they couldnt help unless I took the whole machine to them, so they could do all sorts or tests and diagnostics on the engine! Why they couldnt just test the faulty regulator if I sent it to them I don't know. To take the machine to them would have cost me far more than just buying and replacing the regulator .

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