Cleaning carb on smoking Stihl

[openspaceman]

3 hours ago, Will C said:

A meter of CLEAN starter cord down the park plug hole will block the piston if your stuck, poss not the best way but very effective as long as you dont lose the end 

the last bit is  the significant point. if the cord ends up poking into one of the ports you can do damage as the piston comes up an wedges it. only insert cord once the piston has come up to cover the ports

[AngrySquirrel]

6 hours ago, coppicer said:

Having thought about it using the Makita windy gun is likely a non-starter. I bought it mainly for use with screws and bolts, and the 1/4" holder isn't really designed for shocking off a 19mm nut like this. You can get 1/4" to 1/2" adapters of course, and even 19mm sockets on a 1/4" shank, but I think the chance of it shearing off is pretty high.

 

Thanks to @Will C for the tip. I don't have any starter cord clean or otherwise (clean, in my shed??) or rope, etc. so I'll look into sourcing the little Stihl widget.

Hi nope ive undone/done up wheel bolts with same Rattle driver 1/4-1/2" converter and 1/2" socket so a clutch is Phaff your not undoing only as such shocking it to break where it's been under load reason why trying to do with spanner/ratchet need to stop crank turning while something like a blunt cold chisel? and whack with hammer or rattle gun does it without needing to stop crank turning

[spudulike]

I use two pneumatic rattlers, the only real risk tends to be that the flywheel can come loose when rattling the clutch off the other side of the engine. This is mostly on MS150s as the flywheels are not REALLY cranked up hard like some so I usually avoid guns on small engines if the flywheel is in place.....many say they haven't found the same but I have seen it, great bits of kit in many applications but take care with smaller saws especially if the flywheel has come off recently.

[coppicer]

@spudulike Thanks for that spud, useful. With regard to your earlier comment about the clutch springs, what would you consider slack - would it be obviously weak? I have fiddled around a bit but the springs don't want to come off, so there seems to be some force left in them...

[spudulike]

The usual signs of clutch springs getting weak are a ring ping sound coming from the saw at idle which are the shoes hitting the clutch drum and also the chain pulsing forward when the saw is standing on idle.

If you look at the clutch against a light, look at the springs - if you can see light between the spring coils then they are probably OK, if the coils are touching each other, they are past it.

You can remove them by getting a small screwdriver under the hook and levering it off and using a piece of thin string doubled around the hook to extend them and get them back on.

 

[coppicer]

1 minute ago, spudulike said:

The usual signs of clutch springs getting weak are a ring ping sound coming from the saw at idle which are the shoes hitting the clutch drum and also the chain pulsing forward when the saw is standing on idle.

Have seen the chain run at idle a few times, but it seems not to happen very often - thought maybe an LA adjustment issue. Will take a look at springs as you suggest.

[spudulike]

A high idle speed can make the chain run as can the chain being too loose but if the springs are working properly, you shouldn't see that chain moving on anything than a fast idle.

[coppicer]

OK, hex shaft to 1/2" adapter has arrived. Going to stick a 19mm socket on it and give it a blast, clockwise. What do the team reckon:

 

1) Start with weakest strength to protect adapter from shearing, or just give it full wallop right from the off?

2) Use screwdriver or something to wedge under clutch and stop it from turning, or don't bother, and rely on rattle gun to crack it open?

 

[AngrySquirrel]

2 hours ago, coppicer said:

OK, hex shaft to 1/2" adapter has arrived. Going to stick a 19mm socket on it and give it a blast, clockwise. What do the team reckon:

 

1) Start with weakest strength to protect adapter from shearing, or just give it full wallop right from the off?

2) Use screwdriver or something to wedge under clutch and stop it from turning, or don't bother, and rely on rattle gun to crack it open?

 

Hi says on clutch >OFF if think about it it's same way engine turns chain! or would just undo! I'd go full rattle just need the Shock as a clean thread it's just where been driven tight. So quick burst should do it.

Unlike my dam Crankshaft pulley bolt that needs wanging all the way as thread lock coated

[spudulike]

Just rattle it against the compression, no need to use a solid stop or clamp any part of the engine. Clockwise to remove - left hand thread....done so the clutch naturally tightens when cutting!