Husqvarna 141

[Marlin.45]

A friend gave me a box of bits recently namely one 141 and another one for spares use (someone had run it without 2 stroke - shot bore). I thought this would be a good side project. He didn't use the good one any more and mentioned it was 'troublesome' and the starter cord had bust.

 

The 'better' saw of the two has a good clean bore and reasonable compression (on my finger) so I thought it was worth a go. Even had a new rim drive fitted. In the end it would make a good light saw for brush and clean up with a 13" bar? Swapped over the starter cord assy from the duff saw and one missing cover screw that I found to be missing.

 

Fitted a new plug, cleaned the air filter, set the carb to default (~1 turn out for each) and filled it up. Started first time. So fitted a new spare 13" bar and chain ready to give it a more thorough test.

 

Two problems were then encountered -

 

1. Bar lube initially works and then slows. Fault found to be vac forming in the oil tank. Appears to be a common problem with this model after looking on the 'net'. Bored a small vent hole at the top of the tank and it is now oiling well - actually too well - but there is no adjustment.

 

2. The saw runs well (initially) but then starts to idle lumpy after around 30 minutes - then cuts out. Tried adjusting the carb settings to no avail. Let the saw cool for an hour and the saw runs fine again...until around 30 minutes passes...again.

 

Any suggestions bar the bin!?

 

 

Edited May 25, 2020 by Marlin.45

[Heavy Oil Saw]

Are you letting the saw idle for 30mins or using it for 30mins?

[Marlin.45]

Idle for 5 mins the use for 25'ish.

[adw]

So this was an entry level saw, produced in the American Poulan factory so let’s not be expecting it to perform like an XP saw, the fuel tank breather is in the top of the tank so you need to remove the tank to access it, so check it’s function, the fuel filter in the take was a crappy thing so replace, the rubber inlet tube and impulse tubes can crack and leak air, failing this you may be expecting to much from it, it could well be a case of vapour lock.

[Marlin.45]

Cheers adw,

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Next job carb off (easy) and tank out then (sus it as I go) 

 

Apparently he bought it 18-20 years ago for general firewood work. But yes a cheaper end of the range saw but worth a go as it was FOC?

 

Edited May 25, 2020 by Marlin.45

[Stubby]

1 hour ago, Marlin.45 said:

Cheers adw,

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Next job carb off (easy) and tank out then (sus it as I go) 

 

Apparently he bought it 18-20 years ago for general firewood work. But yes a cheaper end of the range saw but worth a go as it was FOC?

 

Another possibility is low compression . If it runs fine untill it gets up to temp it may be a low compression  issue in as much once the it gets hot and the clearances open up  it wont support combustion    . 

[Marlin.45]

Well saw is now stripped. Delayed due to beer and BBQ.

 

Two problems found.

1. Small what looks like silicone ~8mm dia. connection to lower crankcase from carb back plate was split. Swapped with a good one from the parts saw.

2. Fuel hose split at the filter. May have happened as I was removing it for checking but if it did it was brittle anyway. How to change it though as the tank/handle assy looks to be welded together after the hose is fitted through via the hole by the vent filter? Open up the hole a bit to suit a new hose then seal?

 

Edited May 25, 2020 by Marlin.45

[Marlin.45]

[Marlin.45]

1 hour ago, Stubby said:

Another possibility is low compression . If it runs fine untill it gets up to temp it may be a low compression  issue in as much once the it gets hot and the clearances open up  it wont support combustion    . 

Cheers for the suggestion Stubby.

[spudulike]

Never seen one of these with a good impulse connector, those green tubes always fail.