husky 266se any ideas

[apvinny]

mityvac came and started to test saw,then pin fell out of handle replaced and fell out again.will get a roll pin from fitters in the morning.what a s*%t design.anyone had this problem i can only think of a roll pin for a decent repair.

[Khriss]

25 minutes ago, apvinny said:

mityvac came and started to test saw,then pin fell out of handle replaced and fell out again.will get a roll pin from fitters in the morning.what a s*%t design.anyone had this problem i can only think of a roll pin for a decent repair.

.... I d put a roll pin in.  I did with mine. K

[apvinny]

ok had the morning putting the 266se back together after pressure testing.crank seals all held up as fuel lines etc all hold 7ft llbs well.chinese carb on not running well original carb on still not running well,so ill stick with original carb i have put new diaphram kit in but am still unsure where the needle control arm should sit level with floor or carb housing. i am sure i have tried both ways to same result it will start rev at a very high tickover slow down and stall.i also smeared the thinnest of dirko on gaskets for extra air tightness[wrong or right?].

[spudulike]

Level with the floor on the metering arm. If the diaphragm has a slot cut in the central nipple/stud, make sure it is hooked on to the metering arm if it has a forked end. If it is solid with no slot, just fit it normally. No need for any sealer.

Try 1.5 turns out on the L screw and see if that works. Fit a new fuel filter if not done already.

[adw]

I think we asked before, but impulse, have you removed the induction block and checked the gasket also the hole has not been blocked, 266 was so reliable so it has to be something silly, make sure the hole in the cylinder does go into the crankase.

 

 

[apvinny]

i bet it is something silly. if i put the metering arm level with the floor there is no movement on the needle when i press down on the arm or will the metering diaphram move it more when i connect the fork bit to the diaphram,christ does that make sense.will take apart again at the weekend and check again impulse as well. the only thing i have not replaced is the tank breather every thing else on the fuel side is new. the thing that buggers my head up is the chinese carb made it run exactly the same.thanks everyone for your help its been very much appreciated.i will keep you informed. 

[adw]

See picture

[spudulike]

If the metering arm is level with the base, as soon as it is pressed, the pressure on the needle should be released and fuel should flow.

Easy enough to check, just connect your pop off tester or Mityvac to the fuel inlet, pump it up and lightly depress the metering arm, you should get an immediate loss of pressure.

If both carbs had the same fault, it is possible the issue is somewhere else. Did you pressure and vacuum test the complete inlet side up to the point the carb is joined to the engine? Those plastic inlet manifold parts can crack with age!

The carb should be set so you can just see the slightest bit of light around the throttle plate, with it set like that, unless the throttle is being kicked open by faulty throttle rods etc the only reason the saw will race is a relatively large air leak as the carb should be shutting off fuel and air and a bit of extra air will make it race and a lot of air will stop the saw completely.

[spudulike]

1 minute ago, adw said:

See picture

Nice picture, have you been watching a Youtube "drawing with charcoal" vid Reckon that carb is about as old as you!!

[adw]

Not older, better.