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MS261 M-Tronic Clutch Drum/Bearing/Crank


Heavy Oil Saw
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@spudulike These days I prefer being in my shed, waking up with a hangover and not knowing where you are, ain’t been my cup of tea for a while. It certainly is cheaper, and I’m a Northerner, so appeals to me greatly [emoji23].
Think I’ll use a Stihl clutch bearing, and see where it gets me. I was also wondering, can you port jugs by themselves, as in just receive the jug with no saw? Obviously you couldn’t tune it the saw, I know that much.

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I never like doing this as if the saw has...an air leak, split fuel line, dirty air filter, old fuel filter etc etc.....it may go BANG:cursing::scared1:

And I know what the next question will be....It isn't good enough, I want my money back......I just avoid it!

Edited by spudulike
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I never like doing this as if the saw has...an air leak, split fuel line, dirty air filter, old fuel filter etc etc.....it may go BANG:cursing::scared1:
And I know what the next question will be....It isn't good enough, I want my money back......I just avoid it!

Fair one, leaves too much to chance. I was just curious.
For leak testing, hopefully I can rig up my Mityvac to perform such a task, only used it on EGRs and the like.
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Thinking of getting a cheap test kit with the adaptors, keep the press/vac device as a “spare” and rigging tube from the adaptor to my Mityvac.
Keep the cylinder at BDC or there abouts, leaving the ports open to the crank case, that’s my unprofessional opinion on how to prez test the crank seals and gasket.
Having a mare separating the air filter bassel from the carb. I’ve rammed a 8mm socket down it, but it’s a pain to locate the nut and turn, boo boo me [emoji23]. Being lazy and tight I don’t want to turn down a nice socket. Is there a cheapo socket prime for the job or just jab a rotating drill bit down it so my nice sockets fit? What do the small engine men do?
Sorry about the stupid questions, my large engine brain can’t compute if a 6ft pry bar isn’t to be used.

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