Stihl Cordless chainsaws for carving

[wisewood]

We just need to get the carving bar manufacturers that there is a growing market to get them to produce a better choice of bars for these saws.

So what differences are there in terms of bar mounts? You would have thought they'd be designed to match existing set ups

[Andy U]

I will attach a couple of photos but basically the bar has an open slot at the mounting end which fits over a raised stud on the saw. The MSA160 and 200 run the 1/4 0.43 PM3 chain. The MSA220 runs a 3/8 full chisel chain on either a 14” or 16” bar but has the same open end.

[Andy U]

The Sugihara R7 carving bars fit well. Rob sells them but is waiting for new stock.

[Andy U]

Update: I have now ‘tuned’ my MSA220 by fitting a
14” Sugihara bar and a Husqvarna X- Cut S93-G chain. This makes for a much better saw for blocking out and general forestry work.

[Macpherson]

1 hour ago, Andy U said:

Update: I have now ‘tuned’ my MSA220

Hi, I'm not a carver but if anyone reading this thread is interested I converted my MSA200 from the tiny PM3 1/4" bar and chain to the spec of the MSA220 14" 3/8 full chiz but retained the AP300 battery.

 

The PM3 chain I found to be only really any good for small stuff with not enough clearance in the kerf and a pita to keep sharp.

 

From doing this I recon the motors on both saws are the same [ although I don't know this for sure ].. It transformed the practical usability of the saw and although the conversion goes from 7 tooth pm3 sprocket to 6 tooth 3/8 technically gearing it down, in practice the 3/8 sprocket is larger in diameter raising the chain speed to that of the MSA 220....24 m/s I think ?

It pulls through the wood that well that I can't say I've noticed much difference in battery time, it may even be more productive, well worth the £76 inc.

 

For those running these saws a heads up..... after about a year of moderate use on the wee chain, when changing the sprocket there was a fair bit of small chip swarf in behind it with the potential to clog in the oil pump drive .... something easy to check that should be part of regular maintenance to prevent failure?

 

Sprocket 1250 642 1201

bar           3005 0003909

chain       3616 000 0050    1.3mm /.050"  small gullet I think from the pole saw ? 5/32 file.

 

Cheers.

 

 

[Andy U]

Hi, interesting re changing chain to 3/8 on MSA200.
I also use MSA160 and MSA200 with the PM3 1/4 chain for carving.
I use an 8” Cannon quarter tip carving bar on the 160 and either a 12” Cannon or a 12 Sugihara R7 carving bar on the 200. Used in conjunction with the 220 this is an excellent carving combination. The PM3 chain is good for carving but I also find it good for small to medium general forestry work (sledding etc).
I use a MS 261 for bigger work.
I have found that the cordless can get a bit full of wood chips in battery compartment and in get real casing. It’s fairly easy to take apart to clean it though.

[Macpherson]

3 hours ago, Andy U said:

interesting re changing chain to 3/8 on MSA200.

Yeah, I'm fairly sure it's the same saw.

 

You've certainly made a bit of an investment in the battery saw revolution....mine is mainly for firewood and tbo it's been a game changer, I can get a full load from 1 charge and if working in a built up area, i don't annoy anyone.

[joebrennan]

On 17/01/2020 at 03:39, Stere said:

Just had a look on Baileys and says Cannon would fit.....

 

Cannon 12" Carving Chainsaw Bar (Dime Tip) CCD-C1-12-50

WWW.BAILEYSONLINE.COM

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Professional chainsaw carving bar from Cannon. If you want to carve wood or ice with detail, these bars are a top choice...

 

I just picked up the  Cannon 12" Carving Chainsaw Bar (Dime Tip) CCD-C1-12-43 from Baileys and running it on my MSA 200, with PM3 - 1/4" (.043 ga) but It gives some definite chatter noise on the back end. When comparing it to my OEM Stihl 14" rollomatic e light, it as a slightly wider tail than the Cannon. I visually ran it without the cover (clamped bar to vice) and can see that after turning around the sprocket it's having a little stutter making it to the bar.. I was hesitant to run it but am doing so anyhow and will see how long either  chain or bar last. Though I totally agree and wish we had more bar options as I'm struggling to find other .043 dime tips.  Also I think it's using more bar oil than usual?    

Otherwise are there any opinions on running the .standard .050 1/4" bar and chain combos with a battery powered saw? I just don't want to wear the motor out prematurely. 

Edited January 20, 2021 by joebrennan

[Andy U]

I’ve got a Canon 8” and 14” which I use on MSA160 and MSA200 respectively . They seem to run well and I find the 8” especially good for fine work. However I prefer to use the Sugihara R7 12” ‘tough carver’ bar for most of my carving. They are designed for the Stihl saws.
Rob at Chainsaw Bars sells them.

SL2A-4P30-A Sugihara Tough Carver R7 Tip 12"[30cm] 1/4 .043 64 dl

WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

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SL2A-4P25-A [Stihl Only] Sugihara Tough Carver R7 Tip 10" 1/4 .043 56 drive links

[bens]

Have you tried just putting the .050 bars and chains on them.

 

I run a 193 1/4 for carving but when I'm working near other people and have to keep the noise down just put the bars and chains off it on the MSA200.

 

The stihl carving bar fits it as does a sugi hara carving bar in 10" and 12" both from chainsawbars. The 16" sugihara won't fit it because it doesn't have the open end.

 

The book from the msa200 says to only use .043 but as long as you don't load the saw too heavily it seems to push the .050 chains through the wood, esp conifers. haven't tried it with all species yet.