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Help identifying my wood burner


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28 minutes ago, Steven P said:

As above, if you cannot source a manufactures one, it might owrk out as cheap to get oe made up. 5mm? Steel sheet and maybe bent in the middle plus whatever cut outs are needed. If it is a simple flat sheet an hour or so with a hack saw should get something that works. If you want a template to get something made up i would be tempted to cut it out of some card - an old Amazon box? Easy to cut and fold as required, about the right thickness and you'see if it works.

 

Just another point... just check the wood you have besides the burner doesn't get too hot and self ignite

Any reason not to make it from vermiculite sheeting?

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Its had a hell of a hammering from water,  no cowl on the top of the chimney to keep same out I bet.   Frankly its scrap,  no installer would risk his livelihood and re install and certify as safe to use.   Water gets bewteen the top and the sides and forces them apart, this generally breaks both top and either side and or front of the stove, my best advice is scrap it,  you might get a few bob for it on ebay for spares or repair.   

 

Also dont keep that building timber off cuts so close to the stove,  a good stove working well may well set them on fire at that distance.   Most good radiating stoves combustible clearance from the sides is 500mm plus.  

 

A

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51 minutes ago, Alycidon said:

Also dont keep that building timber off cuts so close to the stove,  a good stove working well may well set them on fire at that distance

My son set his place on fire doing exactly that. Dumbass thing to do, don’t be a dumbass. :)

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14 hours ago, spudulike said:

Cheap Indian Tiger brand, they used to bang them out at Trago Mills: -

WWW.CASTFIREPLACES.CO.UK

With a simple finish, curved legs and a cured viewing window for watching the flames, the Tiger Plus Stove also features a...

 

Thanks Spudulike, that looks like the one. Much appreciated!

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9 hours ago, Peasgood said:

My son set his place on fire doing exactly that. Dumbass thing to do, don’t be a dumbass. :)

You think that is a risk....look at this one....and this is on the website of one of the Arbtalk advertisers!  It may be a fake photo but that is just crazy....  Maybe we should tell them?

https://www.realfirewood.co.uk/coal-heating-vs-wood-heating

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Thanks all, I'll be sure to move that timber. It was left there when moved in and I've just not put it elsewhere as the stove hasn't been fired up yet.

 

I've looked at the estate agent pictures of the house before the landlord bought it and the stove is in use and cosmetically sound. The leak was a slow one so the sitting water on the top of the stove has caused the rust I think, it can't have been going on too long before we moved in though and now the chimney has been repointed, capped and the leak has stopped. I'll get rid of the rust and see how things stand. 

 

Thanks to everyone for being so helpful!

 

Tom

 

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23 hours ago, openspaceman said:

Any reason not to make it from vermiculite sheeting?

No reason except my one is steel - if it was a flat sheet that would be OK, mine also has a bend in it so just going on what I know really. As far as I can tel it is there to make a longer path for the flames before they go up the chimney, and the longer path means they mix with more air and can butn all the volotile gasses more completely. So anything that will do the job should work

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1 hour ago, Steven P said:

No reason except my one is steel - if it was a flat sheet that would be OK, mine also has a bend in it so just going on what I know really. As far as I can tel it is there to make a longer path for the flames before they go up the chimney, and the longer path means they mix with more air and can butn all the volotile gasses more completely. So anything that will do the job should work

Yes mine on the Jotul was cast iron but the  year old Morso is vermiculite.

 

They force the flue gases forward also and cause better mixing with the air wash coming down over the glass.

 

One day I'll have a proper look at the airways in the Morso, in the meanwhile it works so well I just use it.

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Many stove manufacturers have moved to vermiculite baffle plates over the last few years,  dont really know why but they dont warp and also dont ever seem to crack as they never come into contact with logs just thrown into a stove and wacking the side brick against the side of the stove.

 

A

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