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Rootzone decompaction


EthArb
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It's probably been asked to death on here, but, what are people using for rootzone decompaction work? I've got a job that I'm working on where the tree officer is pushing for terravent or similar to alleviate the as yet undetermined level of compaction that may have occurred. 

Every paper I've read points to it not being effective and coupled with the fact the machines no longer made means I'm stuck with either the VOgt injector, that I can't find a single paper that confirms its ability to decompact, hours in the shed building something that again might not even work or hoping someone on here might have an old terravent they'd part with that he's convinced works.

 

I did say about using my Airspade but he's ruled that one out already because it will return to the previous levels of compaction if the access road that's caused the problem is replaced. 

 

Thanks

 

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A couple of posts here that I have read in the past. If you have a search more on here, you will find a lot of info. Mulching with the correct mulch (i,e. well rotted woodchip/compost mix), woodchip not rotted will take nitrogen out of the soil and lessen the efficacy of the mulching concept.  and use of biochar can help greatly to decompact the soil around rootzone area and the biochar and mulch get the worms really working that soil over. Potentially introduction of worms into the soil as well in case there is little or no action, numbers of worms in the soil are a big factor when you consider how few worms are in the soil these days, having been killed off in great quantity through mechanical soil creation, along with pesticides and other toxic substances in our water . In urban space unfortunately if all of the leaves are removed then there is little hope of the soil getting sugars back from the leaf mulch from the autumn fall. 

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Thanks

Normally I'd look to do mulch where possible, although the we use fresh pure chip mulch from willow or fruit species. Biochar I've found helps if you can get it in but its a waste on top so I'll work it in with the airspade or vertical mulch with the auger and chuck some worms in the hole as well and soil drench with simple sugars, but it's not feasible for this job and the Tree officer won't accept it. He's adamant on compressed gas injection.  

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7 minutes ago, EthArb said:

Thanks

Normally I'd look to do mulch where possible, although the we use fresh pure chip mulch from willow or fruit species. Biochar I've found helps if you can get it in but its a waste on top so I'll work it in with the airspade or vertical mulch with the auger and chuck some worms in the hole as well and soil drench with simple sugars, but it's not feasible for this job and the Tree officer won't accept it. He's adamant on compressed gas injection.  

As you say though, you don't know how compacted the soil is.

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I’ve already raised concerns over his assumption that compaction levels have been increased to a

level that would effect root growth and transpiration without having a base

line figure or even testing! 
The proposed plan is to remove the recently installed hard surface and its membrane and then Re-install with permeable membrane cellweb and type one before capping with a permeable surface. It’s not been excavated just laid so it’s been a lash up from the start and now someone’s got to fix it from a tree perspective. 
 

Rootzone intrusion is less than 25% working off the bs5837 guidelines for the area so I’m not unduly worried about reinstalling the road properly. 

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1 hour ago, Rough Hewn said:

Airspade and this stuff.
Can drive plant across it.
Really easy to install.
IMG_8318.jpgIMG_8339.jpgIMG_8354.jpg
emoji106.png

That's pretty much exactly what I've proposed, but he won't accept it. 

I was starting to think I'd missed a trick but from what's coming up on here and a little email chat with Dr Glynn it's nice to see I'm right in my thinking. 

 

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