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Which Budget 1/2" Impact Gun - Cordless?


PeteB
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I can only surmise that neither of you have a big enough tool...[emoji6]
 
I have a Makita 285 impact wrench and the top end brushless dril- 482 I think. Drill wins every time.
 
If you're ripping the top off the screw, that proves my point about the drill having more sustained torque- try Turbo Coach Screws from Screwfix, they're really good.

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
No bud, I'm a professional.
Screwfix is overpriced crap.
It's for budding tradesmen who don't know any better yet.
[emoji849]
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1 hour ago, doobin said:

For coach screws, you want sustained torque. Use a drill and 1/2" adaptor.

 

Impact wrenches provide jolts of torque. Great for breaking loose rusted fittings with jolts of more torque than a drill can provide, and not snapping your arm off. Impact drivers use the same principle to prevent cam-out when driving PZ screws.

 

Try a drill- it's twice as quick, honestly. The big Makita drills come with a massive left hand brace, which is ace for driving coach screws or mixing cement in buckets.

Yes I have powerful 3 speed Dewalt drill that will put in lag screws faster but no way I would want to use it like that when up a ladder putting a barn together. The impact wrench does the job without twisting my arm off

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44 minutes ago, doobin said:

I use tool station 95 percent of the time, but the turbo coach screws are a product I have used for years and can recommend. Along with the easydrive concrete screws. 

Same.

 

Love the turbo coach screws but my word they have gone up in price. When they first sold them they were cheap as chips.

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Yeah as Doobin says- they all seem to have different deals on at different times so it pays to look around regardless of their stereotypes.

Are you suggesting Drills are also better for driving screws too doobin? I can see your sustained torque logic when the drill has a really positive connection like a hex head- but can never seem to get drills to stop slipping in a pozidrive head  for example.

 

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