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Keelan200

Ms200t carb tuning headache

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Hi all, new to the forum. A friend recently bought an ms200t. The saw would start and run and idle, but when youd go to give the throttle a lash it would bog realy bad. So we checked for cracked hoses, blocked tank and vent filters etc but no difference.So i swapped the carb from my 200t which is going like a dream into his one. Started on the button and went like a bat out of hell with quick throttle response. 

The symptoms hes having with his saw where they exact same problems i had with my own a while back. I cleaned the carb but couldnt tune it right. I followed the guide on the cover H fully in and 3/4 turn back and L fully in and 1 turn back but couldnt get it to run and idle any bit. Gave it to a repair place and he had it tuned in no time and going like a dream ever since. I asked what he did and he simply said just tuned it is all and didnt even charge me he said it only took him a few minutes. So im wondering what am i missing?  I now have my friends saw back together with a cleaned out carb, bearing in mind the saw did start and go just got boggy when youd pull the throttle at idle. Then cleaned the carb fully. My problem is i removed the tuning screws to give the carb a good clean and now cant for the life of me get it to start and idle any bit atall trying any of the guides on youtube, factory settings or google. Any chainsaw wizard want to give a young eager sawman some very helpful knowledge ? I would greatly appreciate any feedback or help and sorry for the long windedness of the post.

Edited by Keelan200

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17 hours ago, Keelan200 said:

Hi all, new to the forum. A friend recently bought an ms200t. The saw would start and run and idle, but when youd go to give the throttle a lash it would bog realy bad. So we checked for cracked hoses, blocked tank and vent filters etc but no difference.So i swapped the carb from my 200t which is going like a dream into his one. Started on the button and went like a bat out of hell with quick throttle response. 

The symptoms hes having with his saw where they exact same problems i had with my own a while back. I cleaned the carb but couldnt tune it right. I followed the guide on the cover H fully in and 3/4 turn back and L fully in and 1 turn back but couldnt get it to run and idle any bit. Gave it to a repair place and he had it tuned in no time and going like a dream ever since. I asked what he did and he simply said just tuned it is all and didnt even charge me he said it only took him a few minutes. So im wondering what am i missing?  I now have my friends saw back together with a cleaned out carb, bearing in mind the saw did start and go just got boggy when youd pull the throttle at idle. Then cleaned the carb fully. My problem is i removed the tuning screws to give the carb a good clean and now cant for the life of me get it to start and idle any bit atall trying any of the guides on youtube, factory settings or google. Any chainsaw wizard want to give a young eager sawman some very helpful knowledge ? I would greatly appreciate any feedback or help and sorry for the long windedness of the post.

@spudulike🙂

Edited by Stubby

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Be very wary about trying to tune a 2-stroke machine before you have had a leak-down test performed on it. Even a pinhole leak or a worn crankcase seal can cause issues. The danger is that any extra air ingress will cause a lean mixture and danger of cylinder damage.

In reality, there are so many other things that cause poor performance in a saw before blame can be levied on the Carburettor. If everything else is working, the carb shouldn't need to be tuned outside of the limited settings.

All that said, a common cause of bogging down or loss of power can be damage to the impulse tube (between the crankcase and the carburettor) which leads to the carburettor not being able to pump fuel. It's usually an easy/inexpensive fix.

Edited by Sambo
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So i got it started! I had it at the factory settings 1 full turn on high and 3/4 turn on low and no joy. I couldnt tell you exactly what i did but it involved about 2 hours of small bit out small bit in over and over until it started to run. From there just fine tuned it best i could (wouldnt be an expert at tuning) and now it starts first time on half choke when cold after one pull on full choke and stays idling for as long as i need. Couldnt be happier with it! 
 

on a side note, i heard theres a lightweight 14 inch bar you can get for these? Any recommendations as to where to get them or what would peoples opinion be for the best 14inch bar ? Thanks lads.

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12 minutes ago, Keelan200 said:


 

on a side note, i heard theres a lightweight 14 inch bar you can get for these? Any recommendations as to where to get them or what would peoples opinion be for the best 14inch bar ? Thanks lads.

Try Rob D on here ( chainsawbars ) for a Sugihara pro lite .

Edited by Stubby

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3/4 on low is no good, 1 to 1+1/4 is more typical and 3/4 will give starting issues and bogging on pulling the throttle!

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