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Oak tree - virus/bacteria/infection?


Hadyn98
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Hi ,

I have an oak tree on my front boundary with strange dark marks in the forks.  A tree surgeon who was working a few doors down commented that the tree is infected (I can't remember if he said it had a virus or bacteria or?)  and would eventually die and so needs to be taken out , he would charge £xxx to do it.  (I had asked him to look at other trees in my garden, so it wasn't an unsolicited comment or cold calling. )

However, I am a bit sceptical of someone who cuts trees down for a living saying my tree needs to be cut down.!

I see mention of Slime Flux / bacterial wetwood, but it's not clear to me this is the same symptoms.  I wasn't aware of any smells, and doesn't seem to attract insects. 

 

I was wondering if anyone could comment on these pictures ?

 

The tree seems to be in good health otherwise.

 

Thanks,

Hadyn

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Not sure about 'infected' but if there's staining coming from around the unions of the stems it's probably no. You'll often see staining where water collects in pockets between stem that are full of organic debris (decomposing leaves and such). The water overflows and stains the bark below.

 

But it looks like there are some other things that you may want to consider. The cracking in the adjacent wall is probably due to direct contact with the tree or it's roots. The unions look to contain included bark, so there is unlikely to be full annual rings surrounding the stem immediately below the point where all the ascending stems begin. I.e. A structurally poor union, with a slightly higher potential to fail. 

Ideally early pruning would have removed the competing stems to retain either one or two central stems ( if the angle between them was more u-shaped than V)

 

On the plus side, the lighter smoother areas of bark identify parts that are growing rapidly in compensation for the physical stresses that the tree is under.Hard to see exactly what's going on from the photos but it wouldn't hurt to get an opinion from someone a bit more qualified.

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2 hours ago, Gary Prentice said:

The unions look to contain included bark, so there is unlikely to be full annual rings surrounding the stem immediately below the point where all the ascending stems begin. I.e. A structurally poor union, with a slightly higher potential to fail. 

Yes and a big, vigorous tree for an urban street plus it's turkey oak which always militates against retention in my book.

 

The disease issue is a try on.

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5 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

Yes and a big, vigorous tree for an urban street plus it's turkey oak which always militates against retention in my book.

 

The disease issue is a try on.

"The disease issue is a try on." Or lack of knowledge?

Kinda share your thoughts but it's an otherwise healthy tree contributing a lot to the local environment. Don't know what the owners feeling are about it and I'll keep out of the debate of should it stay or go. That's something that a good arb should discuss face to face with the owner...(probably)

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Don't worry about the wetwood its of no concern in itself. What is of concern is the included bark that Garry mentioned. I would reduce the height of the tree to reduce the possibility of the tree splitting at the inclusion. The tree is relatively young and has a lot of growing to do so the landowner will have to expect further damage to the wall. Get a suitably qualified arborist to look at the tree in person

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Hi all, thanks for your comments, and thanks for confirming the tree doesn't need to be cut down: very much appreciated.

 

Gary: indeed the wall is cracking due to the roots pushing up. The pavement is also heaving up, and it's one of the reasons for my post. I have been getting quotes to rebuild the wall with a gap to allow further root growth but since they're quoting £500 upwards I thought I'd check if the tree was going to come down soon after. (Then we don't need to leave out bricks.)

 

I hadn't heard about included barks . I will have to find someone to view it.

 

openspaceman: I wasn't aware of the type of oak it was , thanks for pointing it out. Pity it's not native, but I don't think that's a reason to give it the chop. I can't quite work out your comments about "militates against retention in my book" ..?

 

Gary: The tree is great, we get some privacy in the front bedroom from the neighbours across the street and in general my wife and I like trees (WIFE: "I'm sick and tired of people cutting down trees"). Pity its not native but if I replace it with something native I'll have to wait a few decades before it's grown again so we'll just keep this as long as we can.

Unfortunately, there was a magnificent tree a few doors down (everyone commented on it), if I'm remembering correctly, it was the same company that suggested my tree should come out which diagnosed that tree as being unsafe.  It got some "keep clear" signs on it one day and was gone 2 days later.. The owner was upset but felt they had no option due to the risk. 

 

Paul: reducing height I have no problem with. This is not the country side to allow the tree to grow unrestrained. I have 3 of those in my back garden and 2 next door leaning into my property. Same guy was quoting £500-800 per tree for those: these lovely garden trees are costly.! 

 

Bracing / cabling: that might not look pretty but sounds a good idea.

 

thanks again,

Hadyn

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I’m not saying it should go but...

 

That included union goes nearly all the way down to the ground, left to its own devices that is going to let go at some point.

 

It is a tree with a serious structural fault and will need reduction, cabling and regular inspections.

 

Because of that I would only get involved in a removal if asked.

 

 Not being party to the conversation you had with the tree guy I’m reluctant to say he’s fibbing.

 

It was just a chat while he was working next door

 

As others have said get a guy with letters after his name in to have a look and write out a report.

 

my 2p.

Edited by Mick Dempsey
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