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Hedging job today


Jack.P
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Been tackling a large 40m native overground field hedge today( mostly hawthorn etc  ) .apparently client couldn’t  fit a tractor in so I have been there doing it by hand  .it had to be reduced by about two thirds in size (mostly the top and back) .struggled a bit with it so far but it’s about halfway  done now .

i am intrested to hear how others would go about topping it as I found all the hedge cutters were not enough and I tried several saws with different chains and none of them seemed correct tool for small diameter wood .at first I tried a 15’’ chain on the 261 but found after a while the chain comes loose and off the bar .a smaller chain worked a bit better but took longer with a smaller bar .loppers worked ok  but then that would take a long time doing it that way .i am thinking now try the pole saw? I only charging 300 for the job 

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1 hour ago, Jack.P said:

.at first I tried a 15’’ chain on the 261 but found after a while the chain comes loose and off the bar

seriously ? learn to look after a saw ! either that or there's a fault on your saw 

 

and there's only 1 way to deal with a hedge reduction and thats get in it with a well maintained  top handled chainsaw  and cut and chuck

but a picture of the hedge would help us give you better advice

 

 

Edited by Cheesy pete
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If you’re using a sharp saw then nothing should be slow to cut small diameter wood. If the chain falls off it’s either stretching (because it’s new or because it’s overheating due to lack of chain oil) or it’s the wrong chain. That said use a small bar in a tight area for max manoeuvrability.

You’ve undercharged on the job plus if you’re charging that rate for what is turning into two days work then there aren’t two of you on it, so you’re swinging a chainsaw alone in a field.

This all sounds terrifying!!!

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38 minutes ago, Cheesy pete said:

seriously ? learn to look after a saw ! either that or there's a fault on your saw 

 

and there's only 1 way to deal with a hedge reduction and thats get in it with a well maintained  top handled chainsaw  and cut and chuck

but a picture of the hedge would help us give you better advice

 

 

Have to disagree with this! I have done many hedge type reductions and have found echo 360tes to do exactly this....its this smaller frithy stuff that kicks as chain comes into contact with it...nothing to do with poor maintenainance...have found the stihl 150 much more satisfactory for such jobs

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13 minutes ago, Kent Arboreal said:

If you’re using a sharp saw then nothing should be slow to cut small diameter wood. If the chain falls off it’s either stretching (because it’s new or because it’s overheating due to lack of chain oil) or it’s the wrong chain. That said use a small bar in a tight area for max manoeuvrability.

You’ve undercharged on the job plus if you’re charging that rate for what is turning into two days work then there aren’t two of you on it, so you’re swinging a chainsaw alone in a field.

This all sounds terrifying!!!

Agree he has under priced the job but " swinging a chainsaw alone " terrifying ?  If id never done that in my life I would not have done much ! 

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an ordinary hedge cutter won't cope, but the Stihl single sided R type were made for it, mine is old model HS 86R good for upto an inch, I have that and a battery topper (from inside as Pete says), except today I had to leave part of it, almost mangled it, they need to be told - nothing after the second week of June

20191003_154109.thumb.jpg.b325cc027d96eba0ac36bfb4e19a6ebc.jpg

 

 

 

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Hi yes I tried a reasonably sharp hs82 and hl95 and neither were making much progress .the chain on the 261 was almost brand new and cutting bigger wood fine .also had loads of oil and correct chain tension.it Has never came of the bar like that before .i am sure the cutting teeth were too big for the diameter wood I was cutting but not heard of this before .

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