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New Hilux- any DPF issues doing mainly short trips.


Matthew Storrs
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28 minutes ago, doobin said:

V8 Jeep Cherokee is a cheap tow vehicle. 

Do you mean Grand Cherokee? Not sure if the previous model could to 3.5t.

but yeah. Mate has a grand Cherokee with the 3.0l merc engine in it- it towed my digger effortlessly but being a bit of an unknown quantity puts me off as with all these luxury type vehicles they have a lot of electric this’s and that’s that like to go wrong make vehicle go into limp mode- just can’t be doing with that kind of thing.

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This is my personal view also, another big help with DPF’s is regular oil changes, i know all modern oils etc are given write ups that they can last double the distance blah blah between oil changes, and there are “long life oils” etc, but i think they only work to their full potential in their most ideal conditions, i.e motorway work, when temperatures are up at a constant for long periods of time, when your engine is revving and holding a steady boost, this is when your engine is running at its cleanest and most efficient. We all know this is not the case for many of us who only work a few miles from home, or only do the school run and shopping run each day where the engine doesnt really get worked. This is when the issues begin, engines that are ticking over and not getting to their max temp are working in their dirtiest form as hydrocarbons/soot particles are being produced. EGR (exhaust gas circulation) then comes in to play. If the engine recognises that its not at its cleanest (ecu, temp sensors, air flow sensors, fuel metering sensors, injectors and so on, all talking to each other) then it dumps its exhaust emissions back in to the engine, going back through the combustion cycle. Those dirty particulates then end up back in the bores where your oil is being dragged up and down the bore, which in turn makes your oil dirty, visually blacker and blacker. Oils are full of lubricating properties, detergents, cooling properties etc, the dirtier the oil the less performance return from it. Oil acts as a very big percentage in your engine for cooling also, its not all down to your coolant.
So for me, a oil change ever 5k-6k miles is a no brainer, gives extra piece of mind, keeps thing cleaner and cooler, and for what cost typically? £50-£100 depending on spec and vehicle.
Again, just my take on it! [emoji106]

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1 hour ago, swinny said:

What you done with the tractor Matt?

4 months ago in went into have brakes completely overhauled, it was there for some time as no need for it- it came home for a week and then clutch went. So it’s had that done too- whilst it was in dealers yard it got a fair bit of interest and they made me a fair offer on it- so figured that as I hadn’t needed it in 4 months I could probably do without it altogether. Will make a good tractor for someone.

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6 hours ago, Ratman said:

This is my personal view also, another big help with DPF’s is regular oil changes, i know all modern oils etc are given write ups that they can last double the distance blah blah between oil changes, and there are “long life oils” etc, but i think they only work to their full potential in their most ideal conditions, i.e motorway work, when temperatures are up at a constant for long periods of time, when your engine is revving and holding a steady boost, this is when your engine is running at its cleanest and most efficient. We all know this is not the case for many of us who only work a few miles from home, or only do the school run and shopping run each day where the engine doesnt really get worked. This is when the issues begin, engines that are ticking over and not getting to their max temp are working in their dirtiest form as hydrocarbons/soot particles are being produced. EGR (exhaust gas circulation) then comes in to play. If the engine recognises that its not at its cleanest (ecu, temp sensors, air flow sensors, fuel metering sensors, injectors and so on, all talking to each other) then it dumps its exhaust emissions back in to the engine, going back through the combustion cycle. Those dirty particulates then end up back in the bores where your oil is being dragged up and down the bore, which in turn makes your oil dirty, visually blacker and blacker. Oils are full of lubricating properties, detergents, cooling properties etc, the dirtier the oil the less performance return from it. Oil acts as a very big percentage in your engine for cooling also, its not all down to your coolant.
So for me, a oil change ever 5k-6k miles is a no brainer, gives extra piece of mind, keeps thing cleaner and cooler, and for what cost typically? £50-£100 depending on spec and vehicle.
Again, just my take on it! emoji106.png

My old Navara D22 specified every 6K . My D40 says every 12K but for the reasons stated above I still stick to 6K + filter .

Edited by Stubby
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6 hours ago, Matthew Storrs said:

4 months ago in went into have brakes completely overhauled, it was there for some time as no need for it- it came home for a week and then clutch went. So it’s had that done too- whilst it was in dealers yard it got a fair bit of interest and they made me a fair offer on it- so figured that as I hadn’t needed it in 4 months I could probably do without it altogether. Will make a good tractor for someone.

Definitely not a man.

Worst excuse I ever heard to become tractorless. I’m not sure you should ever be allowed to buy another one tbh.

A tractor is for life (unless part-exed for another). 

 

 

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1 hour ago, monkeybusiness said:

Definitely not a man.

Worst excuse I ever heard to become tractorless. I’m not sure you should ever be allowed to buy another one tbh.

A tractor is for life (unless part-exed for another). 

 

 

Haha! Fortunately I prefer my wallet to be inflated rather than my pride- so pride took a hit!

 

Nah- I’ll probably regret it but I would use a backhoe or 6 tonner far more so needs must. 

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