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Billhook

Lucas Mill Revitalised

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Had my Lucas model 8 now since 1998 and it has been a great machine. When I went to Australia in 1998 I went to Beechworth and then down a long track to where the Lucas Mills were being made and shook Geoff Lucas by the hand singing his praises.  That seemed to work as he then sent me some updated parts to England free of charge!

 

I have produced and put down several floors from the Ash and beech on the farm as well as fencing and general timber. Also some lovely slabs with the slabbing attachment.  The grain pusher on the front of the teleporter has four pieces of 3" x 8" eight foot wide which are regularly broken on the steel H sections of the grain store by my bad driving, doing no harm to anything except the wood and my pride.

However as I age I find the hand pull starting of the engine to be more challenging as it is awkward at the best of times and painful with my arthritic wrists, but on big logs I have to stand on the log to start it and sometimes the pull start mechanism does not engage with the tube and I nearly fall off the log. usually to the amusement of those watching but not to me!

The Briggs and Stratton Vanguard still runs as sweetly as it did twenty years ago so I am reluctant to change it.

 

I thought about a starter kit for the Briggs but could not find one that made sense mechanically or financially and a new engine with electric start was nearly as much as buying a new mill, then I saw a youtube of people starting engines with just a battery driver.   I took of the pull starter and gave it a go with my Bosch 18volt  with a large socket on the main crank bolt, fearing that the socket would stick to the engine and twist the gun from my hand, but it worked a treat.  I think I might have chosen an AF socket as opposed to a metric one so it may be a slightly loose fit to make it come away quickly when the engine starts.  I suppose a freewheeling joint would be the ideal thing if they make one for sockets spanners, working like the PTO freewheel joints.

 

Anyway, back to joyful milling again!

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Hi, 

  A very good read. With ref to staring industrial engines with electric tools. I tried this with an old 2-man Danarm saw (350cc Villiers) and what saved the day was an inline ratchet adapter....(if this is what you meant by freewheeling joint. I apologise). it allowed the engine to start and not try and twist the drill out of my hand as it took up.

 

look up Sealey Tools AK737

 

Good luck with your endeavours.

Bob.

Edited by Bob_z_l
added info

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1 hour ago, Bob_z_l said:

Hi, 

  A very good read. With ref to staring industrial engines with electric tools. I tried this with an old 2-man Danarm saw (350cc Villiers) and what saved the day was an inline ratchet adapter....(if this is what you meant by freewheeling joint. I apologise). it allowed the engine to start and not try and twist the drill out of my hand as it took up.

 

look up Sealey Tools AK737

 

Good luck with your endeavours.

Bob.

I put AK47 tool in the google search and have now been arrested.........

 

But seriously Bob, many thanks in showing exactly what I have been searching for using every possible combination of words both on google, Amazon and EBay

Such is the modern world that I have just ordered it from Amazon at £17 delivered before 8.00 pm tomorrow!

This also demonstrates what a marvellous site arbtalk is for an immediate result on obscure questions.  There is such a wealth of knowledge out there and another thank you to Steve Bullman for keeping us in order and keeping the site the best around

It is a lot of hard work that needs to be appreciated more

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You are very welcome.

It's the least I can do considering the wealth of info I have gleaned from people such as yourself and @roughhewn  @gobbypunk  to help this novice chainsaw miller on their way.

 

 

Bob

 

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Found that the ratchet device was unnecessary 

I feel sure that the engine cannot spin the drill as long as the trigger is not released

There may be an issue over time taking the edges off the crank but but unlikely and better that than knackering my wrists or worse

The fact that I managed to film this video one handed shows how little effort is needed to start the engine

 

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On 08/08/2019 at 08:13, Billhook said:

Had my Lucas model 8 now since 1998 and it has been a great machine. When I went to Australia in 1998 I went to Beechworth and then down a long track to where the Lucas Mills were being made and shook Geoff Lucas by the hand singing his praises.  That seemed to work as he then sent me some updated parts to England free of charge!

 

I have produced and put down several floors from the Ash and beech on the farm as well as fencing and general timber. Also some lovely slabs with the slabbing attachment.  The grain pusher on the front of the teleporter has four pieces of 3" x 8" eight foot wide which are regularly broken on the steel H sections of the grain store by my bad driving, doing no harm to anything except the wood and my pride.

However as I age I find the hand pull starting of the engine to be more challenging as it is awkward at the best of times and painful with my arthritic wrists, but on big logs I have to stand on the log to start it and sometimes the pull start mechanism does not engage with the tube and I nearly fall off the log. usually to the amusement of those watching but not to me!

The Briggs and Stratton Vanguard still runs as sweetly as it did twenty years ago so I am reluctant to change it.

 

I thought about a starter kit for the Briggs but could not find one that made sense mechanically or financially and a new engine with electric start was nearly as much as buying a new mill, then I saw a youtube of people starting engines with just a battery driver.   I took of the pull starter and gave it a go with my Bosch 18volt  with a large socket on the main crank bolt, fearing that the socket would stick to the engine and twist the gun from my hand, but it worked a treat.  I think I might have chosen an AF socket as opposed to a metric one so it may be a slightly loose fit to make it come away quickly when the engine starts.  I suppose a freewheeling joint would be the ideal thing if they make one for sockets spanners, working like the PTO freewheel joints.

 

Anyway, back to joyful milling again!

How about some sort of conical friction drive in your cordless that you push into the exposed pull start hub (bigger than the hub hole at the widest part of the taper ) . No chance of things snatching at you as could happen with a socket.

Edited by Sawchip

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I was worried about snatching but the more I think about it , the less likely it will happen

Firstly  I set the torque of the drill so that it is enough to turn the engine over, but not enough that it will twist my wrist before the clutch kicks in

Secondly unless the engine kicks back,  if the socket does grab then it will just spin the drill faster with no kickback

Thirdly  If it does kick back counter clockwise again the clutch will kick in

Fourthly the socket has released immediately the engine starts every time so far

Fifthly if it ever was whipped out of my hand then I would just switch off the engine

Sixthly I could always fit the freewheel ratchet socket as belt and braces.

The drill is on the slow speed, number 1  of the two speeds.

Anyway, I am very happy with the result but will proceed with caution!

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