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Stihl ms261 non genuine crankshaft?

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I’m looking into replacing a crankshaft on an older (2010) ms261 due to the usual excessive bearing wear. I’ve found the genuine ones for sale around £200ish online, but I also found a non genuine kit on eBay for £75ish, has anyone got any experience of the non-gen cranks-are they a waste of money etc? 

This is the kit I’ve seen-https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Warehouse-Gasket-Set-Crankshaft-Suitable-for-Chainsaw-Stihl-Ms-261-Gasket-Set/123591334344?hash=item1cc69e19c8:g:C4gAAOSwFAtcOb8b

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Ask Spud on here,  IIRC,He fitted a non gen crank to a .660 at the customers request, it did not last long.

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I would avoid non genuine as I’ve heard nothing but bad reviews on them unfortunately. Can’t say for certain but I would say ‘buy cheap buy twice’ would be the rule here.

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I fitted two AM cranks on a customers 660, one sheared completely in half around the big end and the other ones big end grenaded. I then fitted an OEM one and it didn't return!

I did do another AM crank on another customers 660 and he thinks (got two 660s) that that failed recently.

A bottom end rebuild is a costly and time consuming rebuild, failed big ends can take out the top end so best use OEM IMO.

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Thanks very much Spud, I thought non gen parts were not a good idea (having just forked out for rebuilding a 200t with genuine parts) but thought the question was worth asking as they are so much cheaper! Unfortunately at £200 for a hen stihl crankshaft it’s almost more than the saw is worth, it’s fairly tired anyway so I thought if it was a cheap fix it’s worth a go. 

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I think with the trouble the 1st gen of the MS261 had, Stihl should discount replacement cranks for these saws - just a thought but am sure it will fall on fallow ground!

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I've just discovered my 2013 261c m has worn 0.5mm from the clutch spindle and I'm gutted about this wear, especially as I've just fitted a new fuel solenoid and rim clutch kit! I'm going to try a non-stihl replacement needle bearing set that matches the new dimensions. The replacement Stihl bearing is sloppy on the worn shaft the new bearing from a uk bearing supplier exactly matches the length,new shaft diameter, and clutch diameter - fingers crossed!

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Shame we aren't in America where there's machinists on every corner. I don't think it would take much to tig up/spray weld and re-machine the crankshaft. If you had a good method for it and you were good on a mill you could make a pretty penny re-doing the bearing face. 

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2 hours ago, Paddy1000111 said:

Shame we aren't in America where there's machinists on every corner. I don't think it would take much to tig up/spray weld and re-machine the crankshaft. If you had a good method for it and you were good on a mill you could make a pretty penny re-doing the bearing face. 

Needs to be a chuffing hard layer for it to last more than 2 minutes, the sort of thing that you're obliged to grind....

Edit: I've come across shaft repairs where the shaft is machined to accept a needle roller inner race of an appropriate size.  Suspect there's not enough meat on a chainsaw crank though. 

Edited by bmp01
As per edit note.
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Bmp01 that's just what I'm hoping will work with my saw. The reduction in diameter takes it to exactly 10mm with 13mm internal on the drum 10mm axial length. I've ordered a couple, see what happens. The saw flies, it's a terrible waste!

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