Stihl ms 211/ c throttle linkage removal

[John Rainford]

Stripping down my saw and have taken off the muffler, air filter and housing, carb,  4 Torx screws which hold the cylinder to the crank case, clutch and worm gear, flywheel and it looks like I need to remove the throttle linkage which appears to be stopping me lift the cylinder away from the crank case. I have watched some videos of other saws where you just pop the linkage from the handle and then pull it out at the end near the cylinder, but this one doesn't come out like that. Does anyone know how to remove it at the throttle trigger end? I tried to take the top of the handle off, but can't see any screws holding it on. Maybe it just pops off, but I dont want to force it.

[peatff]

 Any I have had to remove the handle cover there is usually a self tapper at the bottom end of the handle and you need to turn it over to see it. When it does come off watch out for the operator presence lever spring and make a note of where it came from.

[bmp01]

On 18/04/2019 at 13:43, John Rainford said:

Does anyone know how to remove it at the throttle trigger end? I tried to take the top of the handle off, but can't see any screws holding it on. Maybe it just pops off, but I dont want to force it.

If you look from underneith, you'll see a slot at the operator end of the handle. The top cover has a clip with a barb on it which you can access in that slot. Flat blade screw driver in the slot to release the clip. 

Be super careful with the front end of the cover, there's a stupid flimsy piece of plastic ...

[Wedgebanger]

Check your inbox.

 

The 211 ipl  should help you. If you need the Service manual I have it, just ask

 

i think you will find it the plastic tabs on the underside of the rear handle, which enables you to take the top part of the handle off

[Wedgebanger]

Just put a flat blade screwdriver (marked in red) between the tabs ( marked with yellow arrows) the handle lifts off.

[spudulike]

Expanding circlip pliers work pretty well in removing these clipped top handle covers!

[lurkalot]

Or just accidently nock the rear handle against something, it'll all fly apart.  Judging from the amount of 181's 171's that I've had to put back together for people.  

 

Seriously though.  I wish they'd go back to using a screw instead of clicking stuff together like a Kinder toy.  Also, who the hell designs their throttle linkages.

[John Rainford]

Thanks for all the help. It was all very usefull. This is where I am with my first stripdown and repair. Everything removed down to the piston assembly. Clues as to the problem are as follows.

Lots of excessive oil everywhere, especially around the clutch area.

The crown of the piston was covered in a layer of carbon deposits which are black and smooth to touch.

The top ot the inside of the cylinder was covered in a layer of carbon and is pitted underneath the carbon.  

One or two vertical scores at the exhaust port side of the piston.

Crankshaft bearings look good under close inspection and rotate freely without any noise.

Bearing seals look okay, but do have one area on each seal which is marked.

 

I have cleaned the carbon from the piston and cylinder using a degreaser, but the pitting remains. I now need to decide how to proceed with the repair. I have ordered the seals at a cost of £4.50. I can get an aftermarket piston kit for £ 14 or a piston and cylinder kit for £ 25. Hutzl in China do the kit for £ 13 but are currently out of stock. High temp gasket sealer is about £ 6. Do I start with the seals and see if that works now that the carbon has been cleaned from the piston and cylinder, or do I jump in and do all of the above and hope I have sorted the problem. 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

[Wedgebanger]

Pics help, they answer many questions.

 

sounds like the pto side (clutch) seal was leaky.. thus a bit of a lean seize going on /happening. I wonder if there was some detonation happening as well (the pitting at the top of the cylinder).

have you looked on eBay (machineryparts).. or even a reseller from the uk.. there are a few about. It seems like they put on a few quid and you can get them quicker.

 

i wonder if the carb will need to be retuned, it may have been tuned to cope with the leaking seal/s

 

i will send the service manual, so you have it for reference 

[John Rainford]

Thanks for all the help. It was all very usefull. This is where I am with my first stripdown and repair. Everything removed down to the piston assembly. Clues as to the problem are as follows.

Lots of excessive oil everywhere, especially around the clutch area.

The crown of the piston was covered in a layer of carbon deposits which are black and smooth to touch.

The top ot the inside of the cylinder was covered in a layer of carbon and is pitted underneath the carbon.  

One or two vertical scores at the exhaust port side of the piston.

Crankshaft bearings look good under close inspection and rotate freely without any noise.

Bearing seals look okay, but do have one area on each seal which is marked.

 

I have cleaned the carbon from the piston and cylinder using a degreaser, but the pitting remains. I now need to decide how to proceed with the repair. I have ordered the seals at a cost of £4.50. I can get an aftermarket piston kit for £ 14 or a piston and cylinder kit for £ 25. Hutzl in China do the kit for £ 13 but are currently out of stock. High temp gasket sealer is about £ 6. Do I start with the seals and see if that works now that the carbon has been cleaned from the piston and cylinder, or do I jump in and do all of the above and hope I have sorted the problem. 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

 

Thanks wedgebanger.