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cjdg

BIG bang on my TW 150

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Anvils can be turned or just change for new one, the welds like a new addition after wear has happened so a bodge. 

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Morning Chris, I can't see the reason for the weld spots. These anvils , including the one on the roller case , are designed to be turned . So just unbolt, turn and refit . If both sides are worn then replace but yours looks good to turn. Remember you are after the 2.5 - 3 mm gap from anvil to blade edge . Gareth of Green Plant

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An update and further questions. Firstly, a BIG thank you to all helpers especially Gareth whose Green Plant service is exceptional.

 

Here are some photos of work to date which may be of interest. 

Got the anvil blade distance pretty well spot on at 2.5 mm and 3 mm respectively. Used two shims which was the same as before.

 

First problem was to invert the anvil which was welded on. IMG_7942.jpg.c7ebda565b11a093cdf0209cbf95669a.jpg

 

Ground that off carefully but one of the screws (countersunk Allen key) ended up with a round socket so had to use a blow torch and club hammer.

IMG_7945.jpg.ff5ec99f1593c751acdcec6f0b872613.jpg

 

IMG_7946.jpg.a8e6cc10b8cb8c716976a5350a19f2c1.jpg

 

The first was to loosen up the contact area and the second was to rotate the anvil off the tail end of weld which was not fully ground down to avoid grinding the metal. Judicious use of a centre punch at an angle got the Allen bolt moving sufficient to get a grip. Once out it was easy to clean it up and swap over and decided as it was all messed up with weld to tack it back on where the plate had been worn down. 

Then fun and games with a large club hammer and a mate with a blow torch to move the outer casing back into shape. 

IMG_7950.jpg.dcd7f143388bf31fd659427cd07e130a.jpg

 

 

 

Followed Dean's instructions with a slight modification in that I put on both blades  and rotated the free floating flywheel to about 10 different positions to see if it "fell" to a natural low point but try as I might it stopped at any point in the 360 so considered it was OK.

Will post photos with this record and pose question in a new post


 

IMG_7943.jpg

IMG_7958.jpg

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Sorry about the photos' quality

Now for the questions.  Gareth has suggested HP Lithium grease for the sliding sides of the feeder roller assembly

IMG_7969.jpg.7132e0dbb10498a4c97c63661fd3e774.jpg

 

 

 

but what should I use for the bearing? It is a plain simple metal shell with a PTFE end stop. 

IMG_7970.jpg.ad3b440ed6cfb19594bffc27b5df6f99.jpg

 

I have copper grease and will be buying HP lithium.  It seems to me that it is a slowly rotating floppy (loose) bearing so a gap filling thick grease that does not melt away would be favourite.

 

One of the splines is well worn and I am pretty sure it is the lowest one. 

IMG_7971.jpg.58a24d6f1f7842ae02136e3f1ed53e0b.jpg

 

 

 

Can one swap top to bottom on the basis that the bottom gets more wear (indeed is that true?) or

Do you just wait till it goes and THEN replace it? or

Replace it now?

Just remembered - ran the machine for 15 mins as recommended by Dean and BOY was it smooth - not a hint of all the vibration pre repair so concluded that the flywheel was out of balance when I bought it which does not surprise me but I have done about 200 hours of productive work on it so no complaints

cheers all

 

Chris

 

 

 

 

 

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Well done you.

 

As for the sliders, I used wd40 every time I changed the blades, no issues for a dozen years.

 

No need to worry too much, they’re not actually rubbing. 

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