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Today's milling


Rough Hewn

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2 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:


Very nice emoji106.pngemoji106.pngemoji106.png

That was the day I was having a mare  with the new set up and chains Saul, I’d given up at that point but seeing those come up like that perked me up a bit. Any recommendations for drying/avoiding splitting (90mm thick) 

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That was the day I was having a mare  with the new set up and chains Saul, I’d given up at that point but seeing those come up like that perked me up a bit. Any recommendations for drying/avoiding splitting (90mm thick) 

Slow drying possibly.
Elm is very cohesive.
But I’d imagine most will split.
Resin types like the splits though.
[emoji106]
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27 minutes ago, Johnsond said:

That was the day I was having a mare  with the new set up and chains Saul, I’d given up at that point but seeing those come up like that perked me up a bit. Any recommendations for drying/avoiding splitting (90mm thick) 

Only way to stop those rounds splitting is to seal them both sides  with at least 2/3 coats of stuff and dry them slowly  

Edited by topchippyles
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7 minutes ago, spuddog0507 said:

What stuff would you use to seal them with ??

I use SBR its for my building work and always have it around. Seal all my end grain on logs or milled slabs and stops 90% of the spitting and cracking. Lash it on 3 coats 

 

Sika Bond SBR+ Waterproof Bonding Agent

Edited by topchippyles
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13 hours ago, Johnsond said:

Any recommendations for drying/avoiding splitting (90mm thick) 

 

A couple of methods which I've not tried are drilling a 'largish' hole to remove the pith, or soaking the disk in PEG (polyethelyne glycol). Not sure what size of hole would be needed, I'd guess 25 to 50mm diameter, but maybe someone could advise on this? But a patch in the middle might not look too good.

 

What I did about 20 years ago was use an ovalish piece of wood which had been cut at an angle instead of straight across the butt. I bought the air dried slab from Boddy's of Boroughbridge (no longer in business unfortunately) and leant it against the wall on our landing for a few months to acclimatise to the centrally heated house. It distorted quite a bit, but it didn't crack from the centre to the edge. So, that method of milling could be experimented with. The attached notes explain a bit about the table I made which  which still looks as good as the day it was finished.

 

Andrew

Burr elm table revA.jpg

Furniture and Cabinet making article.jpg

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14 minutes ago, ucoulddoit said:

 

A couple of methods which I've not tried are drilling a 'largish' hole to remove the pith, or soaking the disk in PEG (polyethelyne glycol). Not sure what size of hole would be needed, I'd guess 25 to 50mm diameter, but maybe someone could advise on this? But a patch in the middle might not look too good.

 

What I did about 20 years ago was use an ovalish piece of wood which had been cut at an angle instead of straight across the butt. I bought the air dried slab from Boddy's of Boroughbridge (no longer in business unfortunately) and leant it against the wall on our landing for a few months to acclimatise to the centrally heated house. It distorted quite a bit, but it didn't crack from the centre to the edge. So, that method of milling could be experimented with. The attached notes explain a bit about the table I made which  which still looks as good as the day it was finished.

 

Andrew

Burr elm table revA.jpg

Furniture and Cabinet making article.jpg

That’s bloody lovely 👍

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17 minutes ago, ucoulddoit said:

 

A couple of methods which I've not tried are drilling a 'largish' hole to remove the pith, or soaking the disk in PEG (polyethelyne glycol). Not sure what size of hole would be needed, I'd guess 25 to 50mm diameter, but maybe someone could advise on this? But a patch in the middle might not look too good.

 

What I did about 20 years ago was use an ovalish piece of wood which had been cut at an angle instead of straight across the butt. I bought the air dried slab from Boddy's of Boroughbridge (no longer in business unfortunately) and leant it against the wall on our landing for a few months to acclimatise to the centrally heated house. It distorted quite a bit, but it didn't crack from the centre to the edge. So, that method of milling could be experimented with. The attached notes explain a bit about the table I made which  which still looks as good as the day it was finished.

 

Andrew

Burr elm table revA.jpg

Furniture and Cabinet making article.jpg

Very interesting post, and a fantastic looking table, thanks.

 

A friend of mine learned from Tim Stead after leaving college, he was such a skilled and knowledgeable man. I often pass his memorial in the community woodland he established near his home 

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