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Well it looks like you and your vast experiance have really shown me up then.

 

Except you still come across as someone who has yet to grasp the basics.

 

Which you have not.

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2 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:


There is a limit to how fast a saw will cut.
I'm on lunch now but I'll put up something later.
emoji106.png

Cutting speed is not simply down to the speed of the saw, what about sprocket size 🙄

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Well it looks like you and your vast experiance have really shown me up then.
 
Except you still come across as someone who has yet to grasp the basics.
 
Which you have not.

I'm not trying to show you up mike,
Only interested in open shared debate about saws.
Everyone has their own subjective opinions on saws.
I.e.: husky/stihl debate
If I'm missing something basic about saws, I'm all ears.
My point is that there are many variables in wood cutting.
Just because you have a bigger engine and smaller bar it doesn't mean it will always cut faster.
That's all.

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I'm not trying to show you up mike,
Only interested in open shared debate about saws.
Everyone has their own subjective opinions on saws.
I.e.: husky/stihl debate
If I'm missing something basic about saws, I'm all ears.
My point is that there are many variables in wood cutting.
Just because you have a bigger engine and smaller bar it doesn't mean it will always cut faster.
That's all.



Hang on Fellas,
I’m really no expert and equations like this one made my eyes bleed at school, but in a nutshell. Is it down to a combination of the 3?
Engine power output x sprocket size x bar/chain length
A bit like that balancing birds conundrum thing in the back of the in-laws newspaper?
Then you have to add contributing factors sharpness of chain, operator fitness/skill, balance of saw/bar combo?
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Hey good folks, we're all on the same side here.

It's like a brexit debate or sumfin here sometimes :(

Anywho, it's a great deal of factors go in to performance. An 880 has a 43mm stroke and loads of displacement. It is not designed to sned or run terribly fast. And, quite frankly, you probably wouldn't want a 120cc saw running like a raped ape. What you want it to do is pull a 40-48 inch bar buried in oak rather well. Saws are like any other tool. Use the correct tool for the correct job and life is easier.

 

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Hang on Fellas,
I’m really no expert and equations like this one made my eyes bleed at school, but in a nutshell. Is it down to a combination of the 3?
Engine power output x sprocket size x bar/chain length
A bit like that balancing birds conundrum thing in the back of the in-laws newspaper?
Then you have to add contributing factors sharpness of chain, operator fitness/skill, balance of saw/bar combo?

Different types of power output,
Rpm and torque:

Low throw, wider but thinner piston head for decreasing the inertia.
So higher rpm is achieveable, but torque is sacrificed.

Deep throw, wide but thicker piston head for longer power stroke,
Lower rpm more torque.


Sprockets are gearing, if you don't have the torque it'll cut slower than a smaller sprocket, as well as bogging much easier.

Bar and chain gauge pitch and type,
Top plate angle, hook, gully and side tooth as well as depth gauges set at correct depths correlating to the size, density and MC of the wood you are cutting.

As previous members have said,
It's a balancing act between all these factors, and many others.

And that's just the basics of cross cutting.



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This thread is getting way too complicated.

Everyone knows if you put a bigger blade on a saw it makes it more powerful.

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Blade, is this like Zorro - the gay blade. I always thought they were bars or perhaps I am missing the humour:001_tongue:

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Morons.

It’s the big sticky-out bit at the front.

 

You can hardly miss it, it’s 36” long on my Ryobi.

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