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Setting out tree planting


john k
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I’ve done a few bits and pieces of forestry planting and am looking at taking on some bigger jobs. I’d like to be better at setting out the rows (by which I mean straighter, and quicker) and wondered if anyone has any tips or pointers? Plants will be staked and guarded if that makes any difference.

 

I’ve looked in my forestry text books and on line and was surprised not to find anything.

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22 minutes ago, john k said:

 

I’ve done a few bits and pieces of forestry planting and am looking at taking on some bigger jobs. I’d like to be better at setting out the rows (by which I mean straighter, and quicker) and wondered if anyone has any tips or pointers? Plants will be staked and guarded if that makes any difference.

 

Bearing in mind my experience dates mostly from the 70s, after which very little conifer planting was done locally and by 1990 most landowners made the mistake of using tubes and 1100 plants to the hectare and no further intervention or provision for maintenance.

 

We planted with workers in pairs. The foreman would fix a ranging pole in the ground  for the first line and then  walk out to the end of the proposed line. He would fix a second pole. The second person would pace about 10m with a third pole which the foreman sighted in. Each person would then measure out the row spacing at right angles to this first line and place a new pole. The foreman would then place a pole in the second line and the second person would sight in. Planting was done keeping the two poles at the line ends in line.

 

Then we were supposed to start planting in each row toward each other, measuring 6' between each plant (by then we were planting 6' in the row and rows 8' apart.measure 6ft in the previous era planting was typically 5 by 5), in practice it was paced out  and this could lead to weeding difficulties as each line would have a slight variation in planting distance. Weed growth was a big problem as often there was a long delay between felling and planting and it was done with fagging hooks, so being able to predict where the next tree should be nestled amongst larger weeds was needed.

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We set up a steel girder for the back of the tractor with ripping tines welded on at each end set at the correct spacing, made very short work of marking out and broke up the ground at the same time which also made planting a lot easier. It has surfaced during a major clearout so will take some snaps of it tomorrow,

 

Bob

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I simply used a single leg ripper/subsoiler at about 20/24" deep which both gave me straight lines,(and I simply stepped out/eyeballed the distances between trees) , plus it bust the very well established sod and loosened the soil/subsoil, which made the planting a doddle. This was in 10-15 year old untended ungrazed pasture, and I needed some help before setting too with a spade.

marcus

Edited by difflock
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Much the same as above, I used to use canes and tape (easily carried on a re-stock), put several out in the row if the ground undulates and you can't see from end to end.  Measure distance between the rows and in the row with the spade, two spade lengths gave about 1.8m spacing, can't remember the exact measurement now.  If you need different spacings it's just a matter of adding a handle or some other mark to the length and you're good to go.  Very satisfying now looking across the hill and being able to see all the nice straight rows that I planted.  It was Hell at the time of course! :lol:

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When i worked for someone did a lot of planting on field boundaries for screening for sand pit planning application. 7 rows planting stakes at end with string lines ( baler twine ran out with 2 balls of twine sat on back of truck ) 1000m runs then staggered planting rows using 3m length of roof batten if you tie a piece of string to it and to you belt no need to bend down and pick it up just pull it along, have to get string just the right length.  

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