Which Chainsaw for Forestry

[Ratman]

[emoji23]

Since you dont know anything about 2 stroke engines [emoji848].,..,,,,... [emoji51]?
and in conjunction with another thread you have been involved with, you have mentioned about using good quality 2 stroke oil. I personally have only ever used stihl hp mineral oil in all my concrete saws and chainsaws plus all others that i have fettled with.
So.... what are your thoughts on using or being forcefully moved to using, synthetic two stroke oils?

[Ratman]

Sorry joe ??‍♂️ not to drag you in, i just found your comment funny! [emoji6]? i was actually referring my last post to Spud, but do feel to contribute if you wish [emoji51][emoji106]

[Joe Newton]

14 minutes ago, Ratman said:

Sorry joe ??‍♂️ not to drag you in, i just found your comment funny! ? i was actually referring my last post to Spud, but do feel to contribute if you wish

Not to worry, the fact that you use the hp red oil means that you're a basic bitch and your opinion means nothing. 

 

I'll await the comments from hp super users and above!

[Ratman]

Not to worry, the fact that you use the hp red oil means that you're a basic bitch and your opinion means nothing. 
 
I'll await the comments from hp super users and above!

Twat!

[spudulike]

Old conventional non strato Autotune saws are OK on Stihl red although it isn't the best but they will work and not cause issues. All Strato Autotune type engines should be run on Semi or full synthetic oil.

It is pretty simple, the new saws are designed to use the very smallest amount of fuel, two strokes lubricate all he internal bearings with the oil in the fuel used. Less fuel used means less oil getting to the bearings so the best oil will give better protection. As I said, pretty simple!

But I don't know a lot about these sort of things

[Ratman]

Old conventional non strato Autotune saws are OK on Stihl red although it isn't the best but they will work and not cause issues. All Strato Autotune type engines should be run on Semi or full synthetic oil.
It is pretty simple, the new saws are designed to use the very smallest amount of fuel, two strokes lubricate all he internal bearings with the oil in the fuel used. Less fuel used means less oil getting to the bearings so the best oil will give better protection. As I said, pretty simple!
But I don't know a lot about these sort of things:sneaky2:

??? i have been lead to believe! [emoji6]

But nah, thanks for the info, just weary sometimes of synthetic oils as i have seen some engines (4 stroke) behave poorly and destruct when put on to synthetic oil, usually around year 1998 to 2003. I just put it down to the “big commercial changes” where semi’s and fully synthetic oils were being heavily introduced in to the industry. One particular thing that stood out to me was when we shifted from texaco 15w40 mineral to shell helix 10w30 semi synth in 2000 and a large proportion of our OM457 merc engines decided to die!
I’m only a “basic messer” (thanks Joe! [emoji849][emoji30])with chainsaws / concrete saws and tend to stick with most 2006 models and before, hence using stihl hp mineral with no issues. (As of yet)

[Ratman]

You say stihl hp mineral isn’t the best? What do you recommend spud? [emoji6]

[Stubby]

8 hours ago, Ratman said:

You say stihl hp mineral isn’t the best? What do you recommend spud?

I will but in if that's ok ? ....For me , just my opinion , its Red Line Racing 2T oil . There are plenty of other top quality 2T oils out there  though .

Edited December 13, 2018 by Stubby

[spudulike]

12 hours ago, Ratman said:

You say stihl hp mineral isn’t the best? What do you recommend spud?

Pretty agnostic on oil but am currently using HP Super. I don't do much cutting, mostly used for the last run up and tach before dispatch. Look at me as being the F1 Mercedes engine guru and the customer being Lewis! I rely on the end user for feedback, always have and have always got positive responses. The only saws I have detailed measurements on are the 372 and 357 as this was where I started. 

[wyk]

On 12/12/2018 at 07:31, The Technician said:

You have missed the point. All 2 strokes have seals. The way it has been done for years was you had the crankshaft, 2 bearings and 2 individual seals. The space between the seals and the bearings was usually 5mm. This 5mm was for cooling. In the 500 series, they put the seal in the bearing. This is why they don't last. I had one last week. A 555. Pulled off the exhaust and score marks. Pulled off the clutch and the seal spring was wrapped around the crankshaft.  It's usually the chain (PTO) side that goes as the shavings and oil get in it and the seal let's go.

I know several builders that aren't the least bit impressed with how the 500 series are put together, often citing the seals, and general QC on Husky's new products. Mastermind is probably the most vocal, or at least the one I read the most. He's likely seen it all. In a recent lot of Stihls he tore down, the only QC issue he found was a reversed sticker; presumably to warn the tree before the operator.