Chain oil issues

[Darrin Turnbull]

41 minutes ago, peatff said:

If you saw our deep fat frier you would ask the same question. I've had to practically chisel it off the inside of the pan. When it's been through a heat cycle or two it takes some shifting if you don't do it often or straight away like you do when cooking in a frying pan. Using motor oil is not a problem just that it is dearer than chain oil so why would you ?

It was 25-30 years ago  , the engine oil wasn’t the standard it is now.

B&Q own brand oil , two pounds for five litres.

I can remember meeting woodcutters who used waste engine oil.

I’ve used proper chain oil ( oregon ) since being a climber .

 

 

[Baldbloke]

I just use new cheap engine oil when its cold and save chain oil for the summer. Never had a problem with the rate turned up. Years ago in the winter we even used carefully filtered burst oil (used sump/axle/gearbox oil) for our Stihls without any issues. Not so keen on trying that now (as saws seem less robust and I hear Husky's are even fussier)  but perfectly happy using 10/40 for bars and chains when the temperatures drops and oil gets thicker. 

As someone else said, are you sure the oilways to the bar are clear?

[Rough Hewn]

Oilers turned right up and have changed and checked the pick up filters.  Even relatively new saws struggling, almost new MS661 stopped oiling today, 461 looks like oil pump needs replacing not working at all, changed a 261 oil pump a couple of weeks ago, another 261 also now not oiling.  Husky 395 hardly oiling too.  1 year old MS150 stopped oiling.  
The only common factor is Oregon chain oil [emoji19].  Was wondering what other people use?  

Stihl bio oil is what I use, never had a problem.
Last non functional oiler I had was ten years ago.
Normally non or low oiling is a mechanical fault. But, on most of your saws even new ones, I would suspect foul play.

[wyk]

I've ran rapeseed/canola oil straight from the shops for the better part of a decade in a variety of saws and conditions with no issues at all. Using other types of vegetable oils is asking for trouble, tho(mostly due to oxidation). I've had issues with some bio-oils as well. But I haven't tried bio oil in years. Hopefully they're better now.

 

 

https://www.preol.cz/data/blob/storage-application_pdf-20160920022538-1523-msds-rapeseed-oil-v2r2-260816-en.pdf

https://www.mobil.com/English-DK/Industrial/pds/GLXXChainsaw-Oil

https://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/html/98511316/98511316.html

http://www.crojfe.com/r/i/stanovsky_83-90.pdf

[openspaceman]

8 hours ago, Darrin Turnbull said:

In the past i‘ve used new unused  motor oil , no problems. Without sticky additives.

if vegetable oil turns to gum when hot , how the hell can you use for cooking.

plus a well sharped chain won’t get hot.

Yes I tend to use motor oil  to store the saw after using vegetable oil. Vegetable oil gums because it dries in the same way an oil paint dries, by oxidation, so it goes hard with age if exposed to air.. The problem can be that it sets on the cooling fins, reducing their effectiveness.