MS261 Clutch/Crank

[Khriss]

2 hours ago, aesmith said:

Isn't than because it's a pain removing the outboard clutch, whereas on an inboard clutch it's just one clip to remove the drum and the clutch stays in place.

...until the clown pings off that circlip n looses it ! Obvs I keep one in my tool box but am the exception, most guys don't bother.  Also @johnnyboy158 might be possible to reskim the crank ends and find a under size bearing. K

[johnnyboy158]

Iv moved on from sthil now gave the last 261 away last week put new clutch kit on it for a friend to use for personal firewood the rest of them have been striped for parts the only problem I've had with the 562xp is one needing a new carb it's got a bit over 500 hours on it

[aesmith]

I think I'm going to start looking out for an honest Husky 346 or 550.  Pretty sure either would be enough for me,  although there's still that 365 Special on offer locally.

[Baldbloke]

On 05/11/2018 at 17:04, aesmith said:

I think I'm going to start looking out for an honest Husky 346 or 550.  Pretty sure either would be enough for me,  although there's still that 365 Special on offer locally.

I believe the 365 has been on offer for a number of years

I can recommend the 365 Special as I had one as an estate work saw for 5 years and then bought another new (on offer) and still have it as one as my larger saws. Quite a bit heavier than the Stihl MS 260/261 though which is more easily used in real world felling of smaller trees for old fucks like me. 70cc for the Husky and 50 cc for the Stihl
I also understand the 365 special, 365XP and another model using the 365 designation are all slightly different either in bore size,stroke, or carb type. Some are more tuneable than others. I believe the special is best left as standard as less tuneable. Good reliable saw none the less.

 

Edited November 11, 2018 by Baldbloke

[oldwoodcutter]

What a lovely saw the 2018 version is, so very handy and usable for felling small stuff and snedding up. I’ve obviously been keeping an eye on the clutch bearing, and in 9 months have only had to regrease it occasionally.

[Sambo]

Just to add some balance to this thread. I bought a 261 C-M in 2016 and noticed a bit of pitting on the clutch drum inner surface. Took it to a stihl dealer who was completely transparent about the issue! Explained that the problem stemmed from a batch of rim/spline type clutches which didn't have high enough surface hardness where the bearing fitted. Was given a spur sprocket and told if it was still wobbly then the crank would be replaced under warranty. As it happens this work perfectly in till I swapped the bar/chain for their 3/8 Picco kit and a new clutch which has also worked perfectly. Not sure if there was ever a recall but I never had any complaints about stihl's customer care or the machine! 

[Dan Maynard]

Ah - finally somebody corroborating what I was told which was get rid of the rim/spline and fit spur! Maybe I'm not totally bonkers.

[Stubby]

7 hours ago, Dan Maynard said:

Ah - finally somebody corroborating what I was told which was get rid of the rim/spline and fit spur! Maybe I'm not totally bonkers.

This " fix " has been posted on hear several times since the onset of the problems at least a year ago I would think .  You are not bonkers ?

[Sambo]

4 hours ago, Stubby said:

This " fix " has been posted on hear several times since the onset of the problems at least a year ago I would think .  You are not bonkers ?

Worked alright tho! The sprocket, bar and chain off of mine are still going strong on my bro's 260!

[Stubby]

26 minutes ago, Sambo said:

Worked alright tho! The sprocket, bar and chain off of mine are still going strong on my bro's 260!

Don't think the 260 was affected ? Could be wrong though . Thought it was 261 were the problems started .