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Durable fencing timbers? Do they exist anymore..


Matthew Storrs
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I do a fair bit of fencing, mainly stock proof. Iv been a big advocate for using split Chestnut stakes. Tannalised is a waste of time now as Iv had stakes rot in as little as 3 years.

Iv noticed that some of the split Chestnut I installed on a job 5 years ago is also rotting at ground level.

really not sure what to use now- I use telegraph poles for strainer posts and they last for ever. 

Thinking Larch- but supplies could be hard to get hold of long term.

 

oak- not sure this would be cost effective.

 

any other ideas anyone?

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7 minutes ago, Matthew Storrs said:

I do a fair bit of fencing, mainly stock proof. Iv been a big advocate for using split Chestnut stakes. Tannalised is a waste of time now as Iv had stakes rot in as little as 3 years.

Iv noticed that some of the split Chestnut I installed on a job 5 years ago is also rotting at ground level.

really not sure what to use now- I use telegraph poles for strainer posts and they last for ever. 

Thinking Larch- but supplies could be hard to get hold of long term.

 

oak- not sure this would be cost effective.

 

any other ideas anyone?

I do a fair bit of fencing too. Have also had posts rot off in less than three years. My supplier sells a drum called 'toughdip' not tried it but it's supposed to be pretty good. Just dip the submerged part of the post in before installation. They also supply the ground level wraps, thing these would look ugly though. I just try to creosote the bottom part of any wooden post if I can and when concreted in make sure that it's haunched to keep water/soil away from the base of the post.

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11 minutes ago, Darrin Turnbull said:

I read somewhere that a post of yew will outlast a post of iron.

 

what about black locust

 

i’ve seen it used a lot here in Germany 

I think this is the trouble- as you say there are durable timbers out there- but yew is far too slow growing to be grown for fencing and hardly any yew round here.

id prefer to use a naturally durable timber if poss as prefer to minimise amount of chemical use if poss- in any case, short of creosote not many treatment processes seems to be effective at the moment anyway.

 

 

 

Edited by Matthew Storrs
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We mostly use split oak and it actually ends up cheaper than the creosote ones although that's partly because we make them ourselves. Finding straight oak is hard work though. 

 

We've been using cresote ones to make up the numbers and they're alright but it looks like they're dipped as packs so the middle ones don't get the best soaking. 

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A lot of high quality tannalised posts now have a 15-20 year guarantee I believe, that being said...there's no substitute for creosote posts from somewhere like Calder and grandidge in Boston. For Any more info, look up "uk fencing" on Facebook. Very professional group with lots of knowledge sand some of the best contractors you could find anywhere

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larch has a good reputation for being durable out in the weather, milled some 3" square ones for a guy about 7/8 yrs ago he got them treated and then stood them in 45 gall drums in creosote for a couple of wks then turned them over and put in another drum with oil and creosote mixed 50/50 and did the bottom  said he had been doing it for many years and there was some post and rail fencing on the farm that had been there 40+ yrs but he does go round every year with a knap sack sprayer spraying it all.

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