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Need a 2nd, bigger more powerful Saw, 20" +


sidekickdmr
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17 hours ago, woodwizzard said:

Did you use the decomp valve, if so, don't. Mine doesn't like starting with that pressed in.

Radmore think this is the issue, I followed the hand book and pressed in the decomp valve to start. 

 

They say the book is wrong and I shouldn't have done that and will have flooded the engine. 

 

Will de-flood and try again and report back before I give up

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On 08/10/2018 at 15:36, sidekickdmr said:

I am a forest owner, managing my 13 acres of dense ancient woodland, rather than a professional as such. 

 

However it is needing a LOT of work and upkeep, so I'm out there most days, so pretty demanding on my equipment. 

 

I currently only have a Husqvarna 435, which is a small 15" hobby saw, and struggling with the amount of work I'm throwing at it, and knackering me in the process (takes about 2-3 mins sawing to get through one 20cm beech trunk the other day.)

 

Therefore I'm after a bigger saw, to handle the bigger cuts, we are not talking much felling, mostly dealing with the stuff that has, or will fall, and some general clearance. 

 

Oak, ash, beech and fir mostly, but some monsters, trunk of an ash that came down a month or two back must be 1.5-2M wide. 

 

Im looking at the Stihl MS441c-m 70.7CC 25" at the moment, seems to tick most boxes, apart from the £900 cost, or perhaps the MS391 20" or Husky 365 20" if i want to save a couple of hundred £££

 

Thoughts on the best saw for my situation?

 

Thanks 

 

Kieran

sharpen it.

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5 hours ago, sidekickdmr said:

Radmore think this is the issue, I followed the hand book and pressed in the decomp valve to start. 

 

They say the book is wrong and I shouldn't have done that and will have flooded the engine. 

 

Will de-flood and try again and report back before I give up

Thats a good start if the book is wrong then:confused1:

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On a new saw, full compression won't be there until the cylinder and piston have bedded in. Decomps are actually graded by the size hole in them, the smaller the hole, the less the decomp effect. A hot saw will pull over easier than a cold one and one that has sat a while and has a nice coating of oil over the bore, left after the fuel has evaporated, will need a decomp valve plus manufacturers fit them to protect the starting gear as well as making the saw easier to pull over.

You need a decomp on some saws but on many, it is best not to bother.

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Two things have not been discussed yet - vibrations and decibels This may be a non-issue for you. Personally I hate them, the less vibes the better, the noise not so important. Especially if you're ringing up big logs, lot of trigger time. My 461 blew the driveshaft bearing and is in bits. I would not chance another. Went for the 441c-m to replace and very happy so far. Lower vibes, but quite loud.

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