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Chainsaw mill bow

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1 hour ago, trigger_andy said:

Ive tried this too as my 088 is a heavy old lump. In fact I have always done this as the Power Head really lifts up the other end of the mill. 

HI, I never liked the bar flex between the power head and the clamping point from the start of my milling adventure.....there was someone on here experienced a fatigue crack on a sugi bar probably due to this movement.

To restrict this flex without risking too much vibration transfer to the power head, which would probably be detrimental and possibly destructive, I've glued about 1" of high density rubber strip to the mill where the spikes meet up with it ...a wee strip of oak on the spikes....and the the saw pushed against the buffer when clamping, still allows a little movement and seems to work.

It works better with the spikes off, but usually I can't be bothered unless I'm looking for an extra couple of inches in the mill, cheers. 

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5 minutes ago, Macpherson said:

HI, I never liked the bar flex between the power head and the clamping point from the start of my milling adventure.....there was someone on here experienced a fatigue crack on a sugi bar probably due to this movement.

To restrict this flex without risking too much vibration transfer to the power head, which would probably be detrimental and possibly destructive, I've glued about 1" of high density rubber strip to the mill where the spikes meet up with it ...a wee strip of oak on the spikes....and the the saw pushed against the buffer when clamping, still allows a little movement and seems to work.

It works better with the spikes off, but usually I can't be bothered unless I'm looking for an extra couple of inches in the mill, cheers. 

Interesting. Some pictures of this would be great. :)  Im still using the Ecomills but having now seen a real Alaskan in the flesh I might push the boat out and buy one when funds allow. 

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1 minute ago, trigger_andy said:

Interesting. Some pictures of this would be great. :)  Im still using the Ecomills but having now seen a real Alaskan in the flesh I might push the boat out and buy one when funds allow. 

Sorry nowhere near my mill at the moment, I think your mill looks pretty much the same, a pal of mine has one and tbh I can't fault it.

  I'm simply inserting a rubber buffer between the saw and the bottom part of the clamp on the mill, hopefully without transferring too much vibes back to the saw.....I just never liked the amount of bar flex from the very first time I mounted it in the jig  [ stihl es bar ]  , cheers.

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Just now, Macpherson said:

Sorry nowhere near my mill at the moment, I think your mill looks pretty much the same, a pal of mine has one and tbh I can't fault it.

  I'm simply inserting a rubber buffer between the saw and the bottom part of the clamp on the mill, hopefully without transferring too much vibes back to the saw.....I just never liked the amount of bar flex from the very first time I mounted it in the jig  [ stihl es bar ]  , cheers.

ok, might try that. :)  Do you find that the rubber pad helps with a smoother cut?

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thanks for the info I will give this a try see how it goes, since adding a stronger bar across the length of the depth adjusters this has dramatically improved the cutting finish.

FB_IMG_1528840678897.jpg

received_10155945064993264.jpeg

received_10155945066448264.jpeg

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7 minutes ago, Gog said:

thanks for the info I will give this a try see how it goes, since adding a stronger bar across the length of the depth adjusters this has dramatically improved the cutting finish.

FB_IMG_1528840678897.jpg

received_10155945064993264.jpeg

received_10155945066448264.jpeg

Thats some log! :O What did you use as a replacement bar? Might do the same. 

 

Are you not worried about wearing shorts? Im thinking about entering the saw into the cut and exiting. 

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2 hours ago, trigger_andy said:

ok, might try that. :)  Do you find that the rubber pad helps with a smoother cut?

Not that I've noticed, but I'll be milling in a couple of weeks so I'll see if I can detect the bowing you described.

 

Although my my mill is 48" I'm only currently milling with a 660 and a 36" bar, but when I get an excuse I intend to get the 54" GB bar that'll let me make use of the full size of the jig.

Need to find a bigger a saw first.....it's gonna be costly😪

Edited by Macpherson
need glasses
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Na shorts don't worry me I just take care. Using the winch helps the entering and exiting the log. I always use my ppe when felling the trees but not when it's in the mill. I should really too. The bar on this is a 59" sthil bar. But I also run a 66" Canon bar on my MS 880.

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12 minutes ago, Gog said:

thanks for the info I will give this a try see how it goes, since adding a stronger bar across the length of the depth adjusters this has dramatically improved the cutting finish.

FB_IMG_1528840678897.jpg

received_10155945064993264.jpeg

received_10155945066448264.jpeg

Yeah, I can see that the deeper the cut you try to take the more the chance of flex taking place....tbh I'm usually fairly happy with the finish of the cut, I nearly always end up finishing a slab with a router sled once seasoned if it's too big for a planer, [ I'm not doing this commercially ]  cheers.

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1 hour ago, Macpherson said:

Not that I've noticed, but I'll be milling in a couple of weeks so I'll see if I can detect the bowing you described.

 

Although my my mill is 48" I'm only currently milling with a 660 and a 36" bar, but when I get an excuse I intend to the 54" GB bar that'll let me make use of the full size of the jig.

Need to find a bigger a saw first.....it's gonna be costly😪

Ive not had cause yet to go up to a 54" bar but looking forward to the time that comes. :D I have an 088. 

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