Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

choosing a replacement wood burner


Recommended Posts

Log in or register to remove this advert

7 minutes ago, Stubby said:

What are the requirements for eco design ?

Stubby I don't know them off the top of my head but the bits that interest me are the reduced particulates per kWh of heat produced, I think they also require a minimum efficiency of 80%, which will mean a requirement for very dry wood (I have built a glazed 4M3 wood store  to meet this need). All new stoves will  need to be compliant by 2022 (if I last that long!)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, richardwale said:

I use a Burley stove, needs very dry wood but by god does it put out the heat, handles a bit naff and it's worth getting the room sealing  kit

Mine is the Nominally 5kw stove but when its on full chat I recon it must be punting out at least 8kw . The handles just need the wall plugs expanding a tad to make a more interference fit . Or a bit of Gorilla glue or similar .  Also mine does not seem to need bone dry wood , ( obviously its desirable ) but 20% or so works fine . I do have a very good draw on the flue though . 

Edited by Stubby
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you thought of having a burner built to your own spec. I have contacts who build them usually out of gas bottles but am sure you could get what you want do to your own design have seen some real beautiful burners built in my time living on the road. My own is a right junk heap but it works keeps me warm and boils the kettle sometimes to warm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, NickoftheCastle said:

Have you thought of having a burner built to your own spec. I have contacts who build them usually out of gas bottles but am sure you could get what you want do to your own design have seen some real beautiful burners built in my time living on the road. My own is a right junk heap but it works keeps me warm and boils the kettle sometimes to warm

Not in this case, though I have made plenty of stoves on an experimental level.

 

The thing is people are beginning to question wood burning, the chimney is on a party wall with the neighbouring cottage which has been "gentrified" and extended such that it sold for three times what mine is valued at and is owned by a professional couple  of NIMBYs, do I need to add more?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So your neighbours don't like your wood burning. 

 

Invite them round for a brew and a hobnob, or a choccie digestive if they prefer, sit them in front of your warm and beautifully flickering stove.  If that doesn't start to warm them and get them asking about 'How much are they?'  'are they easy to fit?' 'where do you get the wood? then......

Stick to the laws, burn clean as you can, and when they complain about your noisy and stinky chainsaw point out that cutting and splitting your own wood is by far the best way to ensure the wood you burn is dry.  If they still wrinkly their nose tell them to do one.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Stubby said:

Mine is the Nominally 5kw stove but when its on full chat I recon it must be punting out at least 8kw . The handles just need the wall plugs expanding a tad to make a more interference fit . Or a bit of Gorilla glue or similar .  Also mine does not seem to need bone dry wood , ( obviously its desirable ) but 20% or so works fine . I do have a very good draw on the flue though . 

I've got a bigger Burley, 8KW nominal I think but ~12 peak. The moisture meter that comes with it protests about wood that's more than 16% moisture, but it actually burns damper wood without problem - just a smidge less heat, obviously. It really does punt the heat out anyway, and having just had mine swept, there wasn't much clag in the chimney, even after a long winter of burning "dry" logs I bought that were not. (Once I ran out of my own properly seasoned stuff). Though I did do my best to stack em by the fire for a day or two before burning. Does get through quite a lot of logs, but it's heating a big cold room. Oh, and the draw on my flue is pretty bad when lighting, but fine once it's going.

 

Agreed re room kit, no one needs a cold draught down their bum crack when feeding the stove.

Edited by sandspider
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.