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Over heating


briquette_seller
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3 minutes ago, briquette_seller said:

Yes it pressurized when removing the cap when hot.

 

Still runs hot without the cap on, and you can see the water circulating

 

4 minutes ago, briquette_seller said:

Yes it pressurized when removing the cap when hot.

 

Still runs hot without the cap on, and you can see the water circulating

running hot with cap off , no thermostat , rad is clean and you can see water being moved round , pointing to several things hear, as some one said pourous liners cracked head / warped head or head gasket gone NO WATER IN OIL ? one thing i would do is run it up and put pressure in to rad with a air line while running , did this with a old bedford van that was running hotter than normal after fitting another rad and it was just air in system some where but putting air line in cured it then put about 3 pints of water in it,

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32 minutes ago, briquette_seller said:

No radweld, but could have had a mix of antifreeze. 

 

I'll clean again, but the first time was pretty clean, not gunky at all.........

First you need to do all the checks for a combustion leak into the coolant, this is normally done by sensing CO2 in the coolant. Even if there is no water loss the combustion gases are hot.

 

When a radiator core gets blocked it's difficult to shift, I think  they  used to dunk it in hydrochloric acid for a few minutes, this would dissolve rust and calcium carbonate  if no inhibitor had been used. I was told some antifreezes could react and deposit silicates (and I can't think what would shift that) but would only expect that with old antifreezes.. If that fails it needs a recore or replacement.

 

If you are confident the head gasket is now fine and suspect a cracked head then try a shot of steel seal. It's a bodge but worked for 50k miles on a transit we had at work which was only recently scrapped (for rust not engine problems)

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5 hours ago, Ratman said:

Pressurise the system manually using a tester, cold to start with, if pressure drops over a short period of time then your in to the obvious..... theres a leak, check visually first for any external signs i.e hoses, head gasket area, water pump gland, water temp sensor body, the usual etc.....
If no signs then you could be looking at an internal leak, possibly on inlet/exhaust side through a fractured head as husk king suggested earlier. If no pressure drop when cold then it would suggest that you have a internal fault once hot.
So run engine up to temperature, watch your exhaust for signs of grey/white smoke whilst doing this which would also suggest water/coolant loss, and repeat pressure check again?
But if you are having to get to this point then chances are your looking at fractured head or porous liners.
Did you see any pitting on top of block or fretting marks around top of cylinders near where fire ring sits on head gasket? Did you have head faced/skimmed and pressure tested whilst you were changing head gasket?

No pitting or fretting.

 

Head was not skimmed nor pressure tested.

 

I'll try a pressure test on Monday 

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