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Sharpening jigs


AHPP
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My sharpening is OK, maybe 7/10. I want to make it very good, at least 9/10, the sort of sharpen where people try your saws and more of them than not say, "Fuck me, that's sharp." (and it cuts straight).

I'm currently doing the cutters freehand and the depth gauges with a Stihl gauge (but taking it off to do the actual filing because it's soft steel - changing to the hard Husky gauge already on the cards). I sharpen at a vice 95% of the time.

 

What filing/grinding jigs are people using?

 

Respectfully, I'm not interested in hearing from dead eye dicks that can do it on their lap in the woods in ninety seconds. I can't. I am interested in hearing from people who started using a jig and got results.

 

Edited by AHPP
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Definately use a file guide / top plate on yr file - no way you can get the tooth profile exact on every tooth without one - plus get yrself comfy , I am amazed at the contortions people use to file their saws with ! K

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I can sharpen freehand but am better with the guide, if I have caught metal and need to take the cutters back a lot I will do a little, then take the rakers down a bit (leaving the raker guage in place, it doesn't wear down that quick) and then continue sharpening. This lets the round file sit better and you get a better gullet/working corner..... In my experience anyway. As for cutting straight, as well as even teeth, the bar dressing tools are awesome, having level guidebar rails will make cutting much more accurate, especially on 30inch and longer

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I've always used a file guide. Very difficult to keep the depth of the cut consistent otherwise. Make sure you maintain downward pressure as well as backward. Most of the poorly shortened chains I see have sod all hook on the teeth.

 

Never understood why people buy expensive pro saws only to do a crap job sharpening them. 

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Top plate type file guide for me ( although I can do free hand )  Check depth gauges with a pressed steel gauge . If they need it 2 or 3 strokes with a flat file and put the gauge back on to check . I never file the rakers with the gauge on . If its soft it will file the gauge away , if its hard it will dull the file .

Edited by Stubby
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Tried most of them over the years. Mainly used the flat plate type but dabbled with others. If you are working towards freehand and want an aid for you to perfect this I would try the Husqvarna roller type like this https://www.toolstoday.co.uk/husqvarna-combination-gauges?gclid=CjwKCAjwyrvaBRACEiwAcyuzRFNDFwjBn3yD40OJqL8KMTgnb7IeOycbomdRyD_FG801GZP-zbYmLRoCHq4QAvD_BwE. It is slow to use but gives you a good feel for how to do it freehand.

 

Recently got one of the Sthil 2in1 jobys. Great thing about them is you do the rackers at the same time as the tooth. Only complaint I have with it after a few uses it seems to take the rakers down a bit too far. Fine for some saws but it made my processor too aggressive. 

 

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I tried the Husky Roller type and never liked it, never feels particularly stable to me and wear on the rollers looks like it will change the tolerances to me. Some people like them though?

 

 I always come back to the standard Oregon type kit and good quality files (Vallorbe for me). Saw properly clamped, I'll tighten the chain a little to stop it canting excessively and off you go.

 

 I keep 4 sharp chains with me and swap when required rather than sharpen in the field, and have one "end of life beater" for cutting absolute filth when it's unavoidable.

 

 I'm only a home gamer but have shown a couple of people who earn their living with a saw how to sharpen after they've used one of mine. I sharpen to original spec, so 25 or 30 degrees on most of my chains, and raker depth to standard spec too.

ocs.jpg

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2 hours ago, Husqvarna King said:

 As for cutting straight, as well as even teeth, the bar dressing tools are awesome, having level guidebar rails will make cutting much more accurate, especially on 30inch and longer

? ? ? ? 

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