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richardwale
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Not convinced that is helpful.

 

They point out it burns OK but then say it's half the weight and the same calorific value!  It's not half the weight and has a higher calorific value per dry kg. By their guide we would need to sell softwood for half the price.

Edited by Woodworks
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Yes agree not that helpful, science is what you need to convince the customer.

The problem is that a lot of people don't burn hot enough and that is what causes the problems with tar in

the flue. The only way to tell if you are burning correctly is with a flue thermometer, I will explain this when

delivering logs to a new customer.

The number of times i have been working in a customers house and the woodburner is slumbering all day and

night, and again having to tell them how this is bad practice.

 

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Apparently you can get stuff to rid the flue of carbon from low temp burning. Never tried it as I don’t burn at low temp[emoji6]
If a stove then softwood spitting not a problem and I promote the fact that weight for weight the oils in softwood burns hotter. I don’t mention the quicker side of the equation

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2 hours ago, woodland dweller said:

Yes agree not that helpful, science is what you need to convince the customer.

The problem is that a lot of people don't burn hot enough and that is what causes the problems with tar in

the flue. The only way to tell if you are burning correctly is with a flue thermometer, I will explain this when

delivering logs to a new customer.

The number of times i have been working in a customers house and the woodburner is slumbering all day and

night, and again having to tell them how this is bad practice.

 

I'm a chimney sweep and you are absolutely right, nearly all customers have this thing for turning it right down at night so that there is barely enough air for combustion to occur 'to keep the fire in'. Modern houses with central heating, good insulation, draught proofing and small rooms get far too hot even with a little sub 5kw appliance, so they are never run at the correct temperature. Being the poor sod sweating my knackers off in thick overalls and a respirator on in february, I know full well how warm people like to heat their houses before they even light the fire. My particular favorite is the diy fitters that install really large appliances with back boilers that are never run anywhere near up to temperature and then the smoke is cooled further by heating the water - 'what do you mean it's extra for the 2 hours you spent chiseling creosote off the inside of the burner to release the baffle plate?' >:(

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6 hours ago, woodland dweller said:

Yes agree not that helpful, science is what you need to convince the customer.

The problem is that a lot of people don't burn hot enough and that is what causes the problems with tar in

the flue. The only way to tell if you are burning correctly is with a flue thermometer, I will explain this when

delivering logs to a new customer.

The number of times i have been working in a customers house and the woodburner is slumbering all day and

night, and again having to tell them how this is bad practice.

 

Some stove manufacturers won't validate a warranty if the customer uses a stove thermometer. I certainly don't use one as they massively increase the risk of over heating. Clear glass and flame pattern is all you need to judge a good fire. 

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Some stove manufacturers won't validate a warranty if the customer uses a stove thermometer. I certainly don't use one as they massively increase the risk of over heating. Clear glass and flame pattern is all you need to judge a good fire. 

 

If they use one?!

@Alycidon might be able to confirm?

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