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300 TDi fuel stop solenoid help!


Matthew Storrs
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Perhaps some kind soul can put me out of my misery?

 

baiscally Landrover won’t start- turns over but no magic. Now if I take the fuel stop solenoid out and remove the spring and plunger then it starts straight away (but obviously have to stall it to stop the engine) so iv replaces the fuel stop solenoid (3x I’ve done this over the last year) works for a bit possibly months but then suddenly it won’t start again. The single wire to the solenoid is reading 12v so am now stuck for any further solutions. Not sure if there is an earth fault somewhere which is causing the problem. Either way it’s definitely something to do with the stop solenoid because it works without it.

if someone has the answer I will forever be in your debt!

 

thanks, Matt

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Why have you had to replace the solenoid three times?

 

I had a similar issue with my L200.  If the glow plug light didn’t light when cold or flick on then off with the engine warm, it wouldn’t energise the stop solenoid. Auto electrician put a new wire from an ignition switch live, to the solenoid. Sorted the problem.

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13 minutes ago, Gary Prentice said:

Why have you had to replace the solenoid three times?

 

I had a similar issue with my L200.  If the glow plug light didn’t light when cold or flick on then off with the engine warm, it wouldn’t energise the stop solenoid. Auto electrician put a new wire from an ignition switch live, to the solenoid. Sorted the problem.

This sounds very similar- often when it fails it is because it is warm and I crank it over without waiting for any heat.

 

iv replaced it 3x as I thought the first 2 might have been faulty- it always restarted when I put the new one in. But the latest only lasted a week before I couldn’t start it again. Tried a better quality one, it’s not starting still but there is a small amount of spluttering whilst it’s turning as if the solenoid plunger is marginally retracting but not enough to kick it over.

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I say that the auto electrician put a new wire.... That was his explanation to me. Whether it was a bit more involved, with another wire to ground, than that I don’t know. 

 

Most solenoid coils I’ve seen are two wired, but I don’t know if they all are. Does the wire come live when the ignition is turned on?

 

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Does everything else work, indicators, horn etc?

 

I'm puzzled by the replacing of three solenoids.

 

I'm not familiar with your vehicle, but I wouldn't think there is much to it. Ignition switch, solenoid, and fuel cut of switch (inertia switch). I'd guess if the indicators,horn stop working when the ignition is turned off then the ignition switch is ok.

 

Bare in mind I'm not an auto electrician though, and stand to be corrected.

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Sounds like ignition switch problem, had same problem with old 2.5 diesel land rover and it would also cut out when driving along, was terminal on back of ignition switch put wire on spare terminal which was live on ignition when turned to position 1 and stayed live until switch off.

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Thanks for the suggestions.

 

yes, when I turn on the ignition there is a steady 12v. If I turn n the ignition first and then connect the solenoid wire- I can’t feel or hear the solenoid working at all.

in all honesty the spade connector isn’t terribly convincing though as it feels a loose when connected. I’m going to try putting on a new connector and see if that helps. It’s all such a basic system so can’t be anything too funky I’d have thought.

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2 hours ago, Matthew Storrs said:

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

yes, when I turn on the ignition there is a steady 12v. If I turn n the ignition first and then connect the solenoid wire- I can’t feel or hear the solenoid working at all.

in all honesty the spade connector isn’t terribly convincing though as it feels a loose when connected. I’m going to try putting on a new connector and see if that helps. It’s all such a basic system so can’t be anything too funky I’d have thought.

I didn't explain myself very well. Does the horn, indicators work when the ignition is turned off, when the engine is still running?, If so I think the ignition switch is at fault. If not I would be looking at the Inertia switch. Being a "back yard" mechanic I try to diagonse problems that don't cost a lot to start with.

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